Woke up at 7.30 and had a lovely full breakfast. While I did some washing in our lovely bathroom, Garry went to send a telex to Dad and ended up speaking to a really rich American, quietly spoken and nice, I might add, he privately funds the animal rescue projects and was really interested in Station Epula when we told him. He confirmed that Zimbabwe is a good place to sell Landy and arranged to give us some contacts there.

He uses the hotel as an office so pulled strings to get us a phone call to Dads office. We got through just as we realised it was Saturday - idiots. We have finally lost all our marbles. When we settled our bill they didn’t charge us for the call!

Drove towards Moshi to call in to see a contact Roy in Kisangan had given us for the car. Its a lodge set in 20 acres of forest and it took ages to find as there were no signs up. WOW - when we arrived it was beautiful. The German lady owner Gisela made us really welcome and told us the car was sold. She invited to let us stay there for a night. A crystal clear river runs through the immaculate tropical gardens and the 5 horses are given free rein to graze where they want. The room turned out to be a suite and after a coffee we returned to get our things from the car and it had been washed.

This place is the best Safari lodge and I can see why! Walked along the river before dinner at 8. When we chatted to 2 pure colonial gentlemen and a scathy lady Fay, who is also interested in Landy. The Kenyan men told us $25,000 was too cheap. Had a first class dinner.

It wasn’t a dream and I really am staying in this idyllic place and that noise is horses trotting past the veranda! After breakfast Gisella told us she wanted to speak to her husband by radio for an answer about the car. She suggested we take a drive to Anisha National Park and then invited us to her daughters for a drink!

It was an hours drive to the Park Gate but they wanted $50 so after looking around the museum there, decided just to drive through the Park’s main road in Transit which you don’t have to pay for. We saw some great birds but no animals and by 1pm we arrived at Momella Lodge for a drink and lunch. It was closed for renovation but we did meet Violet, an Irish midget who made up for her size in verbal energy and her German boyfriend Uriah, who lives in Lamu and are travelling Tanzania on a motorbike. Had a cup of tea with them and then drove to Stephie’s house.

She has a lodge actually in the park from which you can see Mount Meru and Mount Kilimanjaro. It was a beautiful place with thatched roof and gallery. While we drank our coffee, a giraffe strolled over to the back garden and she said they walk through twice a day. What a great place to bring up her 2 young sons. Although sadly money doesn’t bring everything, her husband was killed 6 months ago in a plane crash.

Driving back to Ngare Sens, we saw zebra, giraffe, nervet and a tree full of huge hornbills. Gisella insisted we stay another night - who are we to argue. After dinner though, she said it wouldn’t be possible for her to buy Landy but her mechanic could look at it for us tomorrow. I walked round the grounds and watched the lovely colobus and vervet playing, then chatted to the horses.

After breakfast we sat on the veranda and read while we waited for the lodge mechanic to arrive. We then took a walk along the river and by 11am he still hadn’t turned up, so we thanked Gisella for her tremendous hospitality and went to town.

How embarrassing, as soon as we arrived at the Hotel Mount Meru, Tom told us that our phone charge had been billed to him. We settled that up and then called Dad’s office - it was such a bad line, we had to call back and then he wasn’t in the office! David Clarke rang back to tell us to wait. Surprise, Surprise Mum called and told us Lisa had set off on her adventures. We were cut after a minute or so. We were just about to give up and wait after 2 hours when Dad rang and we had a nice long chat. Garry went to Cooper Motors, Landy agent, and we can take Landy in for a medical in the morning. By this time it was 4.30 so we walked around the well stocked Indian shops and bought some food. We went to the Chinese restaurant, although there wasn’t a china man in sight. Ordered our meal and then got down to the real reason we were - changing money! Food wasn’t too grand but we enjoyed it because it was a change. Arrived at Daluti Lake campsite at 8pm and there was an American couple who had just bought a really well designed 15 year old Landy that’s already been across Africa 3 times! Had a pop up canvas roof and hammocks, so you could sleep 4.

We didn’t wake up until 8, what an achievement! Except we had promised to have Landy at the garage early so we hurried a quick breakfast and got down to Coopers at 9.30. Just in time to see Scott driving off with the service manager. Their gear box has gone and Diana was really upset. We had 3 mechanics working on ours, and they changed the timing belt, reset the tappets, replaced fan belt and fuel filter and air filter, cleaned out the sedementor and pot riveted the new locks on the top box and took off holder for sand ladders. All this work took them until 3.30pm and cost 6,600 (+£30). We left Scott and Diane £250 lighter, still very upset and sleeping in garage forecourt overnight. We bought real sausages and went back to the campsite.

I had a shower and had a nice surprise to find it was hot. I cooked sausages, fried eggs, fried tomatoes and sauté potatoes, which I really enjoyed. Garry though took one mouthful and said he felt sick, for the rest of the evening he felt bad, so we just read and took it easy. Went to bed early with the sound of music blaring out from the bar. Had a terrible restless nights sleep as Garry didn’t feel well.

Woke up with the worse sore throat so far, aching all over and weak. Garry still didn’t feel well either so I didn’t tell him and made breakfast as usual.

What a miserable pair we made; we read for most of the day. Got chatting to 3 backpackers and shared a smoke with them by the lake. Didn’t feel like eating lunch so we slept instead. It was one of those days that should have been cancelled due to lack of interest.

As the day wore on, Garry felt better and cooked himself an instant curry. He was joined by a Newcastler, joint waving man and they went for a drink in the bar. During the evening an Italian then English/American overland trucks pulled in. Garry came back at 10 and we went to bed.

My throat was really bad when I got up so after breakfast we went to the pharmacy and bought some antibiotics. Went to the market and shops for provisions then finished off in the New Anisha for coffee and a doughnut.

Came back to the lovely lake that is trimmed by lavender flowering trees. Did a huge load of smelly washing.

After dinner 2 overland trucks pulled in as well as the Italian minibus and shortly we were surrounded by little tents and very noisy people. These strange people have a custom of waving their arms around, but they never achieve take off.

Set off bright and early towards the Kenyan border at Namanga. First through we went to town and bought a few bits and changed more shillings.

We had one beautiful drive, waving to the little Maasai herds boys and were unexpectedly greeted by 2 giraffes right on the edge of the tarmac.

By midday we were going through the border formalities when they realised we didn’t have a road tax permit; we explained that we had been told we could pay in shillings but not only would they not accept shillings, they wanted 100 US$ and not $60 as we had been told. The alternatives they gave us was leave the car there and go to Nairoloi to get $ or return to Arusha. We obviously chose the latter and at the road toll picked up a hitch hiker who paid our $3 toll.

Back in Arusha we rushed to the customs office, but it was closed so we would be spending another night at Lake Daluti - I could think of far worse places to be delayed. So with a sigh of “Oh Well Africa”, we went back to that little piece of paradise by the lake.

If at first you don’t succeed try again - so by 9am we were queuing, pushing our way to buy the car tax. We were then told, we were at the wrong office, so off we went. Once there we waited and waited for this man to come out of his meeting. Eventually he saw us and told us we did have to pay in US$ and gave us a letter to take to BK of Tanzania, allowing us to exchange $ from shillings. Simple - at the bank we explained the whole story again to some miserable, arrogant BK manager, who wanted to see every receipt and piece of paper in our possession, then told us to go to the National BK of commerce (Go back to jail, do not pass go, do not collect £200). Eventually saw the BK manager and went through whole story again. He sent us to see Assistant manager and after explaining it all to her, she sent us back to BK of Tanzania! There the manager made me go through everything again with his assistant and she wrote down everything we had spent, even fruit from market and then told me to go away and put the whole thing in writing and come back on Monday as they were closing!

Cheered ourselves up with a nice curry from Chit Chats - a real Indian food at its best and cheap. Decided to try to find the other campsite for a change of scenery but the road was so bad that we broke another shock absorber so turned round and went back to Daluti.

Lots of people arrived since last night. An English guy, who had ditched his girlfriend on his trans-African trip somewhere with another Landy with 3 Aussies. We chatted to them for ages and then Buzz reappeared now complete with his 3 buddies and their country. Got on well with them and they were also slagging off Lawrence from overland.

Apart from doing a whole load of washing, had a lazy day.

Played back-gammon in the bar and read The Hobbit for hours.

“Oh Diary, forgive me,
For I have done wrong
Everyday you call me
but I’ve left you too long.

My inspiration has died
and the memories faded
What we ate for breakfast
is all that fills these page.

Our adventurers are made for reciting
and reading on cold winters evening
SO I PROMISE to make you more exciting!”

Got down to the bank armed with my grovelling letter and was told to return in one hour, then had to wait another hour while they typed a letter authorising us to go National BK of Commerce to collect our dollars. As I left, an office boy was sent with me to make photocopies of all our papers - to my amazement we had to walk to town to use a photocopy machine in a stationery shop! I’ll never complain about the British banking system again. By this time when we got to the customs office it was closed until tomorrow.

Back at the campsite, the Kamutu truck returned, with everyone aboard complaining about each other! They had a live pig with them and invited us for pork with them. Balanced on 2 deck chairs, it fell into the fire 3 times before it was eventually cooked by 10pm but we only managed to get a morsel each.

Made a huge fried breakfast to make up for the lousy dinner last night and set off by 9.15 armed with our precious dollars. Garry came back from the customs office minus the car tax and said they wouldn’t accept dollars!! Back to the Head office and he gave us a letter to let us buy it at the border, where we started off on Friday! Had a good drive to the border through the dry bush land and saw Giraffe strolling along.

After an hours discussion, we were given our car tax for $60 and at the Kenyan border we were swarmed on by laughing Masai women selling their jewellery - they have a great sales pitch - start off low and then increase the price as soon as you show any interest. They love to decorate all their bodies with brightly coloured beads and their shaved heads show off their holey ears adorned with huge earrings.

No trouble at all getting through Kenyan border and we gave a gently spoken girl a life to her home in Nairobi, 40K before reaching it we saw giraffe, thompson gazelle and zebra - there was actually a run over baby zebra in the road - ah!

What a shock to see this capital with ultra modern buildings everywhere. The dual carriageway was just as confusing as central London but we eventually found Thorn Tree Café and walked to the Amex Office which was closed. Found Mrs Roche’s campsite and met Diana and Scott again and had to camp almost on top of them as there’s not much room here!

Up at 7.30, we had breakfast then walked over the road where a Matatu was waiting. We squeezed in, 4 to a bench, and chugged our way into town. Went straight to Amex office but they told us to return in 15 minutes - we collected our mail and had a coffee and a good read of very old letters (forwarded from Nigeria). Got a cash advance but they wouldn’t give $ only travellers cheques. So from there we went to Barclays buts its a long procedure to wangle out $ from them! Went to at least 10 camera shops for a second-hand camera and eventually found one the same as Garry’s, didn’t buy it straight away. Went to a burger bar for lunch and had a nice cheap lunch. I felt like I had been walking around the West End all day but twice as hot. We then bought another shock absorber for £25 and got a Matutu back to Mrs Roche’s.

Garry started fitting the shock absorber straight away and I walked up the road to the local shops and it was like Christmas to see fresh milk, butter, hot bread and cakes. Bought a lovely pizza for dinner and struggled back with a huge bag of goodies.

Super Mechanic successfully fitted his big jobby and after we had hot showers, then joined Di and Scott and an Aussie couple for the evening. Had a laugh swapping travel stories and went to bed at 10.

Relished fresh milk and weetabix for breakie and at 10am after taking a hot shower, we fought our way aboard a Matatu and went to town again. Had to change another $100 travellers cheques and then went to another couple of camera shops but they had nothing to offer.

Went back to the shop with the OMIN and tried to barter the price with him - he told us to come back on Saturday after he had spoken to the camera owner. Left our films to be developed. Traipsed around a 100 shoe shops trying to find Garry a cheap pair of trainers but didn’t find any.

We are getting so tight that we checked out prices of 6 burger bars before deciding but it backfired on us as we ended up with a grotty lunch and wondering about Hepatitis etc.

Went to Ibrahims supermarket for a few supplies then literally fought our way onto the Matatu and back to the campsite. We got dropped off by the shops but they were closed so we walked back without anything for dinner. I cleaned out the mossie meshes and windows and gave Landy a nice autumn clean. Garry went back to the shops and bought us a piece of steak for dinner. It turned out to be delicious with mushrooms, potatoes and carrots.

It rained in the evening and we played cards and had a bar of chocolate - what a treat. Later we went through our route with Di and Scott as they are leaving in the morning.

Had a strange dream about huge feathered gorillas and woke up to see a cloud of feathers and a big hole in the quilt!

It’s a big day in Nairobi today - celebrating the 10th Anniversary of Nyayo and Moi in power. During the morning there was an impressive aerial display.

Everything was closed today so I did some reading and writing (no arithmetic), while Garry cleaned up batteries and generally greased everything that moved (I kept very still). Then I attacked the quilt and had a feather fight with it. It must have got power steering fluid on it, cos in several places it started rotting, where we air it on the bonnet.

I walked to the shops and luckily one shop was open for bread and milk, and the market stalls were there for potatoes and tomatoes (How interesting).

I showered while Garry cooked Spaghetti Bolognaise, but it was really greasy as he said himself (I’m not complaining though). As everyone knows I’m the supreme Gin Rummy player and Garry challenged me to “a slave for the day” match and he won, the cow son. There was only 30 points in it, which made it infuriating but it doesn’t start until midnight, so I’m not doing a thing till then.

After a nice helping of gypsy toast, we squeezed into a Matatu and by the time we could say “Jack Robinson” had arrived in the city centre.

Went straight to the camera shop but he hadn’t spoken to the camera owner (or so he says - the owner is probably an innocent tourist minus camera like ourselves!), collected our photos and although we were disappointed with most, the chimp ones touched our hearts.

Wandered round and round in ever decreasing circles. Each thing we tried to do came to a dead end. The insurance companies and banks are closed because of yesterdays celebrations and when we tried to ring Al, he was out. The few safari companies we went to, weren’t interested in buying our darling Landy either. Garry did manage to buy a pair of trainers and shorts and we did have a nice burger for lunch, so all was not lost.

Stopped off at Ebrahims before our perilous journey home. I then did more washing and Garry took off the rattling exhaust shield. Had just burgers in buns for dinner and played a double or quits card game which resulted in me being slave for 2 days.

Went to bed with Bilbo and friends at 9.30.

I got all dressed up and even put on make-up for my disguise for a hauty tourist. Then we went to Kenyatta Airport. Its outside town, and next to Nairobi National Park and once there we parked up and went to the Departure Lounge. Chose our destination and went to the bank and asked to change my traveller’s cheques into dollars. It worked for US100 without any questions so I walked to the other lounge and did the same thing at Barclays. What a deceitful but necessary way to get hard currency.

While I was doing this, Garry got chatting to a New Zealand couple just arrived from Egypt and he offered them a lift to their hotel. They were a really nice pair and after they offered us a drink we ended up staying and talking to them for most of the afternoon. We also met a Gurba tour leader for the third time.

Once we were back at the campsite I changed clothes, felt strange to dress up again.

Went out again in the evening, 7pm to be precise, into town in a Matatu. Then did what had to be done - sample the famous Indian cuisine of Kenya. Had a delicious meal and were pleased to see most the diners were Indian. It was a really short walk to the bus and I felt happier with Garry’s knife in my bag. The first class meal and a bottle of Kenya’s own Plum Rosie wine (OK after 1st glass full) was only £10 for both of us.

Planned an early start but bed was cosier so didn’t get up until 8 and once we breakfasted etc, we didn’t get on the Matatu till 9.30. Had an impossibly long list of things to do and as expected didn’t get very far.

First went round a few more camera shops but they didn’t have anything so went to Expo and we agreed on a price of 13600KS and he told us to come back tomorrow, so it can all be cleaned and checked. We then wore out a lot of shoe leather trying to get insurance quotes. It seems there is a standard price depending on the term but each one insisted on knowing our life history before they told us they couldn’t help us. We were led up so many blind alleys that after the 8th company, we went to the first one for 500KS for 2 weeks. Off we traipsed to the customs office to get our circulation permit. After a long queue we were told we had the wrong form and in any case it would cost 300KS (we know for a fact its free), so we asked to see the manager and he said the same thing and we should bring the car for him to inspect.

Frustrated we gave up on that for the day and went to have a burger. Tried to change dollars and couldn’t, tried to buy meths and couldn’t. Did buy some nice mince and pasta, so went our weary way home to dear old Mrs Roche’s. Scott and Diane returned from their safari and there were 5 land rovers in all as well as loads of tents and other big trucks.

Cooked a gallon of porridge and pest didn’t want any so I ended up pigging myself and walking round with my belly on the ground all day.

First call - the camera shop. At last we are the proud owners of a cannon A1, 50mm, 80-200 +28mm +2 x converter. He even gave us a free battery and film and said he would pay for developing. Its guaranteed for 3 months but we’ll be gone by then. Went for a coffee to decide what to do next and for Garry to make eyes at his new toy. Tongue in cheek, I went back to the customs office in the hope that someone else would be on the desk; it wasn’t and I was told the same thing. Next I queued up for 10 minutes in Barclays, where we were told you could get dollars to be told where to go!, and where to put my request!

Asking in bookshops we found a great second-hand one and bought Africa on a shoestring, and one on East Africa. It was a great market and we bought some nice veg and meat. Then I went into a supermarket.

When we got back to the campsite I did more washing and Garry cooked a nice stew type dish with leeks and meat and mushrooms. Played cards and stuffed our faces on Queens cakes and hot chocolate. Although Garry’s losing weight, I’m putting it on and feel a right sloth at the moment.

After a substantial breakfast of egg on toast, cooked by Garry, we packed up and took the car to town as we wanted to show it to honest Habib.

Firstly, a bad omen, we were stopped on the way by the police wanting to see our permit. It look a lot of persuasion to explain that was where we were actually going now and finally they believed us.

I dropped off our free-be film to be developed then after asking 6 dumbos for directions I found the customs office (that had an auction going on, on the entrance porch). Was told I didn’t need to go there at all and to go back where I started to get this bloody permit. Back 6 spaces, no-one at the counter, back another 2, go to see person in charge, not there, back another 2 spaces. Told to wait for a long time (I’ve never been told that one before, usually they lie). My wait was rewarded and Fred gave me the very insignificant looking permit, charged more travellers cheques, more bureaucracy!

Habib didn’t want to buy our darling - more fool him. Got 10L of meths for ½ the price, they asked at chemist - they thought we were mad! Then popped in for coffee at Jax Restaurant, Marie Costa Bir, from BBL, brother and sister-in-law. They invited us for lunch next day but I think they felt obliged to, so we declined. Went to the meat and veg market and supermarket and stocked up. Made a beef stew in the evening that was like rubber boots! Read our new travel with interest.

Packed everything away and said our goodbyes to Di and Scott then went to town and collected our photos. Then went to fulfil a dream. We took a drive out of town 15klms to the home of Karen Blixen, where she fell in love with the place and people and inspired here to write “Out of Africa”. Her book meant such a lot to me that it really touched me to see the land for myself. Although it is now a tourist con, I placed myself 70 years ago and was there.

From there we drove to the Ngong hills where her boyfriend Dennis Finch Hatton is buried and once at the top had a spectacular 360° view on Kenya old and new. The perfect place for a picnic. The only damper on the day was an ominous tapping noise coming from the engine that got progressively worse.

On the way back to town we went to the Animal Orphanage by Nairobi National Park. It was set up to save young or sick animals found abandoned in the park. They had some pygmy hippos, lions, cheetahs and hyenas (one let us stroke it through the wire like a soppy dog). They even had 2 tigers and a leopard, deformed chimps and buffalo. Some colubos and an albino baboon. One little monkey was free and w stroked him although all the locals were frightened and kept teasing it. It was a perfect day altogether.

Bleary eyed, Garry crawled straight out of bed (after reading till 3 in the morning) under the bonnet to try to ascertain where our gremlin was in the engine. Our hunch was it was the turbo proved wrong, so we packed away and went in search of Cooper Motors. A huge modern garage gave us confidence. Then, the English manager immediately told us that it was a stuck valve, a fault with new 110’s and he would telex Land Rover to try to make a claim. Our warranty is valid until 1st November but we have exceeded 12000 miles, so we may be pushing it. Agreed to come back on Monday to have work done. Headed to Ambessili national park and drove along some road to border passing Thompson Gazelles on the way. Stopped at a lovely massai village and bought drinks and fresh beef, that they wanted to cook for us. At the border we turned south onto a dirt track and found it was horrible corrugations. For 2 hours we rattled along, fast or slow it shook the car to pieces. At the gate we paid £7 which lasts as long as you want. Tried bartering for a lovely intricate Ebony carving but couldn’t agree a price so left. What a spectacular view was before us, Zebra, Gazelle and Wildebeest with the great Kilamanjaro looming in front. Took some great shots of Elephants silhouetted against the sunset.

At the basic campsite we cooked on a charcoal fire and while eating, looked up to see a Giant Bull Elephant 20 ft away! I have never panicked so much in my life, really thinking it was going to charge as everyone was flashing lights at it and even inside Rover I couldn’t enjoy this fantastic experience.

It seemed to be sizing us up and walked right round the car till a Safari man ran him off in his van.

Garry woke me up at 6am to show me a red world dotted with acacia trees, the air thick with a singing of a hundred different birds and animal calls. Saw Kili in all her glory, not a cloud hindered our view right to the snow capped flat top. In such heat its amazing to be looking at snow.

Animals everywhere, from the marshland to the dry plains, with huge columns of Dust Devils. So many wildebeest, zebra, tommies and grants gazelle that we hardly took notice of them. Stopped to photograph a pair of secretary birds and a cheeky velvet monkey stole a carrot from the back of the van and we didn’t even realise until he shot out with his catch! Hippos sunbathing, regal giraffes necking. Then 28 elephants silently strolling right towards us! They ambled past within 15 feet of us and the only noise to be herd from moving their great hulks with their ears flapping!

The “piece de resistance” was watching a cheetah lunch on a gazelle, although at quite a distance it was quite a sight. It was an incredibly hot day and by lunchtime I was already burnt from sitting on the roof. Had a great picnic high in the observation hut on a hill overlooking the river heaving with animals. Cooked again on an open fire and just as we finished eating I looked up to see the great beast was back 10 ft away. This time, more prepared for him, I thoroughly enjoyed the experience from on top of Landy, while Garry watched from up a tree. He walked to 5ft from our fire and munched away on the thorn bush like it was tender lettuce. So close to him we could hear him chewing and breathing. His long ivory tusks gleaming in the moonlight. He wandered off eventually to return at 1.30. This time the Masai camp workers ran at him in their minibus, engine revving and blowing their air horns but he didn’t seem too concerned at this strange animal with flashing eyes.

So much happened I forgot to mention that we pulled out the camp workers Nissan from soft sand. In thanks they bought Garry a beer. While he was with them, a lovely old Masai man joined me and I gave him a cup of tea. Although we could only communicate in sign language, it was nice to spend some time with this peaceful man of old Africa.

Over breakfast we could see 2 elephants enjoying their meal a way off. Needless to say it took us a long time to get going. Drove around the swamp area again and watching 2 wildebeest play fighting and standing on their knees rubbing their heads in the dust. Its a great surprise to see so many elephants here, but each one was as fascinating as the first. Drove all around on the dried up Lake Ambesseli which brought us out at the gate and back on the wicket corrugated road. We drove most of the way through the bushes which was much kinder to our nerves and car. I found an amazing piece of architecture in an abandoned weaver nest but I’m not sure if it would stand up to the journey home.

Short of diesel we arrived at the border, Namonga and were amazed to hear both the modern garage had no diesel. Didn’t have enough to go to Nairobi but luckily we found some half way in a village off the road. Again saw 2 giraffe wandering 20 feet away from the tarmac road!

Back at Mrs Roche’s by 5pm covered in a layer of fine dust. Al, Buzz and John had arrived and invited us to join them for a meal at Carnivores. 16 of us piled down there to the “Eat as much as you can” carvery of exotic meats. Having not eaten all day we bloated out on chicken, pork, lamb, beef, sausage, camel (tough) and Konkoni (nice). All back to their dormitory, Buzz kept us in stitches until 1.30! Dr Bob asked us to shut up. Although Dr Bob bored us all during dinner with my medical complaints, its nice to meet a Dr. who smokes.

After such a late night we were surprisingly wide awake by 6.45 and by 7.45 were in town trying to find a bank that opened early. We had time for wimpy style breakfast before it opened at 8.30. I was there when the doors opened and soon back at Ma Roche’s. Repaid Buzz for last night, then went down to Cooper Motors.

The mechanic that started working on Landy was a pure perfectionist and even worked through is tea-break. Cleaning every nut and bold as he went, he soon had the head off and found the valve guides bent and clogged up with sulphur (a problem with Kenyan diesel apparently). The Land Rover rep for all Africa showed a lot of interest in us and took Garry round the whole garage. He telexed Land Rover UK to ask them to pay for the work under warranty but after 3 attempts go no reply, so said Cooper Motors would pay! All we had to pay for was new oil. They finished the work at 5 and David Monk, the African rep, took us for a drink at a lovely family run hotel, Fairview.

There we joined 2 friends of his, one Ian, was a fascinating old man, he’s Gaelic but lived his life in the bush all over the world. Tales of bringing up his daughter with a chimp and keeping a leopard as a pet until it attacked its keeper and he had to shoot it. David invited us to dinner the next evening and even said I could go horse-riding on his horse! Picked up a pizza on our way back to the campsite. Such generosity is touching.

Packed away straight after breakfast to go to Coopers again but we ended up chatting to nearly everyone at Ma Roche’s before we left.

While the mechanic was adjusting the tappets, David took us for a coffee; this guy doesn’t seem to do much work! His office is the classroom and we had a lesson in Land Rover mechanics.

By 12.30 he had finished on our car so we followed David to his house for a drink. He showed us the promotion video for Land Rover celebrating its 40th anniversary. Also a few videos of his racing horse, which is doing really well. A race horse here costs an incredible £18 per month.

On the way back, just as Garry said “we’d better stop to see what’s rattling under there” we heard “ping, ping” and saw nuts and bolts rolling about in the road. A shock absorber had worked loose and lost all its connections. A Kenyan helped us pick up all the bits and after crawling back to Mrs Roches’s, Garry fixed it. Got to David and Mandy’s for dinner at 7.30 and were joined by their friends who own a safari company and did the overland trip 3 years ago with a Land Rover each, just for the 2 of them. Had a nice meal and good evening. Went to bed at 12.

Up at 8 and after a huge bowl of porridge we packed away to prepare for our journey for Mombassa. Said our goodbyes at Ma’s and stocked up on food at the parklands shops. In town I went to the post office on our way to the Amex office but the police stopped us (which we didn’t really mind cos were totally legal), until he said I am going to accompany you to the Police Headquarters, but wouldn’t tell us why. Once there, they immediately impounded our car and wouldn’t even let me sit in it. They have done the same thing to at least 100 foreign registered cars but wouldn’t offer any explanation. Some owners had been there 3 days trying to get them back.

After an hour or so and seeing a German get arrested for asking questions, I went to the British High Commission who said I was the 4th person with the same problem and gave me the number to ring of the Senior Commissioner of Police. A total racist, the man gave me a lift to the consulate, took me to his office to ring police but they couldn’t speak to me. Back at the Police station things were moving so slowly and tempers were fraying. 3 hours later and no joy so I phoned Sir John Ferguson, British Consulate, who in turn contacted the senior police woman, whatever he said within ½ hour our name was called and we were released without questioning (after 6 hours).

Rumour was, it was to find arms from Ugandan registered cars but they couldn’t discriminate so pulled all foreigners in. When we told everyone on the site about our fun day, we ended up taking Dominic and Janet to Carnivores for his birthday treat as he didn’t want to drive.

Had a nice time there but back at Mrs Roche’s at 11.30 there was another panic. Al had disappeared and last reported being seen escorted down a dark alley with 3 blacks. So 4 of the blokes went armed with knives in Landy to search for him. An hour later they returned, much relieved and found him in a seedy hotel enjoying a taste of African pleasure! To finish off such a fun day, the 2 white Kenyans got back, paralytic and asked if any one had medical experience. A nice barbecue evening has turned into a fight and one guy had a nasty cut hand but cost he was drunk insisted it didn’t need a bandage and that it was a minor cut, while he sat in a puddle of blood! I hope I don’t have a repeat of today again, thanks very much.

Even before breakfast, Garry was under the car trying to see where the clonking noise was coming from - he found it - the rear ball joint has gone! Nairobi has cast a spell on us and won’t let us leave. However much I like this place, in full bloom with Jacaraxdas, enough is enough.

Back to Cooper Motors and Mr Fleming and David weren’t there but a mechanic immediately told us Garry was right and it would cost about £60. They couldn’t do the work until tomorrow though, so we went into town to change some more money.

It was actually closed when we got there, so we went for a walk around the market. They’ve got some beautiful stuff especially the slim and surreal figures in Ebony and Soap stone. Bartered with the stall holders for a lovely chess set.

American Express let us draw out another £200 which was good of them, to help us pay for the car. Back at Mrs Roche’s, Al joined us for the evening and it was a bit quieter than his escapade last night.

Garry was ill and kept being sick during the night - for the first time on the trip.

We woke up early but Garry still felt rough so we went back to sleep. Had a mad rush to get down to the garage as we promised to be there by 8am.

Bob, the same smiling mechanic started working on Landy and David arrived. He took us upstairs for a coffee, such a nice bloke. The ball joint was totally finished and when they investigated the clonk noise coming from the front suspension, we found the radius arm bushes had worn. They replaced them for us and swapped the front springs over although we didn’t have to pay for that.

David got us 25% discount on parts and the labour only came to 500SH (£17) for all day. These mechanics only get paid £60 a month! So we gave Bob a hammer and he was over the moon. We left the garage at 5 and went with David to Mike and Louise’s beautiful ranch. Didn’t stay long cos they were off the Europe the next day.

Got back at 7.30 and found 2 boys camped right next to us. We started chatting to them and learnt they had only arrived that day from Hackney. They’re culture shock in Nairobi was the total opposite to ours, thinking it was the height of civilisation.

In the morning we agreed to take Chris and Joe to Mombassa with us via Mzima springs.

Had a race around Nairobi getting things done. Buying food, posting letters and we went to the market again and bought the soapstone chess set.

Left Nairobi successfully! Were on our way to Tsavo by 11.30 and it was a hot cloudless day. Stopped for a drink in a little African bar that only sold beer and had a good chat with the locals. By 4pm we still hadn’t eaten lunch so we stopped at a canteen and had an awful samosa, bullet cake and foul tea.

Entered Tsavo West National Park and went straight to the campsite. It was great to find that we were the only people staying there and there was firewood prepared and toilets with live-in frogs. There were zebras and grants grazing in the distance. Built a big fire and cooked lovely sausages and chips. A big striped mongoose (perhaps a civet) kept coming back to investigate our camp and while we were moon gazing, an elephant let out a hearty roar, which sent Garry scrambling inside Landy.

Woke up at 7am and before breakfast I stuck my head under a very cold water tap to wash.

Set off on Safari at 9am and it wasn’t long before we saw zebra, thompson and grant gazelle and waterbuck. Then we saw a herd of about a dozen elephants crowding under the shade of a tree, all red with dust.

By 11.30 we reach Kilanguril lodge, so stopped for a drink. As we walked along the path there were loads of hyrax playing on the reception roof, but that was totally surpassed by the view at the other side of the lodge - a water hold was 200 yards away from the bar and was crowded with buffalo, zebra and all sorts of gazelle. The staff were really friendly and pointed out all the animas (not a rich American in sight)!. Drove to the incredibly beautiful Mzima springs, that gushes out ½ million gallons of crystal clear water a day. The hippos were obviously in their glory. We went o the under water viewing tank to see the crocs, but there were millions of berbal fish circling it. Tried to catch one for dinner unsuccessfully with string and biscuit! After lunch with the baboons went back to the lodge and watched the live wildlife programme going on at the waterhole until it got dark at 7. There were 2 lions strolling around but they didn’t want dinner this evening.

At the campsite nearby we were joined by Sam, a Safari cook for a cup of tea and smoke - what a nice old local guy he was.

When I got up at 7am everyone else was up and having coffee with Sam. While I was doing some washing at the tap (dyed everything blue, by the way), I was joined by a huge baboon 5ft away and soon there must have been a hundred around the camp.

Took our time in leaving and deciding what to do. In the end we chose to go to Tsavo East on our way to Malindi. Drove back to Mtehe Andei Gate without seeing many animals. At the small village there we bought some food which seemed to take forever. Stopped in a bar for a cold drink, all felt totally drained in the heat and Joe bought some supposed Miraa!

Drove the 50K along tarmac to Tsavo East gate where there were elephants munching a tree! All along the track to Ligards Falls we only saw a handful of zebras and gazelles. But the animals suddenly became unimportant at the sight of these ancient waterfalls with a Lava escarpment as a back drop. The smooth marble stones sent my imagination wild. In several places the road had collapsed as the track ran parallel with the Galari river, did see a few elephants, hippos and giraffe on our way out. Went to Crocodile camp but they wanted 140Sh each, so after watching the crocs, left and camped just up the track. A puffer adder had us hopping crazy, while we mad a fire and we had to kill it! Had a nice vegetable soup for dinner.