We went out together, changed money in the bank, always an hour long affair. First you have to queue at Enquiries, then wait for them to process your travellers cheques then you queue up at the cashiers. What is nice to see, is black cashiers as well as black customers. With all the bomb scares here, while Garry was waiting for me, a dog walked into the bank with a briefcase in his mouth that he dropped and left there; everyone just stepped over it!

We visited more garages then went on a tour of car washes to find the cheapest ones. We got the engine and underneath steam cleaned. Went to the Times offices, got lost in there and I changed wording of Ad so it reads “Land Rover” first. Garry put “British Made” so its listed with BMWs!

Then we went round to Carrie’s. Trevor hadn’t been told that we had moved to the campsite and sounded genuinely upset that we had left, so we moved back! We went down to the campsite to tell the guards if they take any phone messages we’ll pay them R1 each.

Carrie showed me her portfolio; she really is excellent and lucky to love here work so dearly. Jo had us in hysterics telling all of how her love affair has blossomed, although they live 900K apart.

Made a long list of phone calls - Great Outdoors Magazine, to see if we could write an article on our trip and mention car for sale - no joy; rang the 4x4 club - no answer; rang insurance companies (desperate measure) R1000 minimum, more garages - no chance!

We were starting to discuss the alternatives of either shipping it home or me flying home to start selling the house, while Garry tried to do something this end. We were so fed up but didn’t want to go out in case we miss the call.

In the evening, Ian rang and that cheered Garry up no end. Then, even better, Al rang, he received our parcel but also had bad news, his lovely Nan had died.

Telephoned the campsite and yes, we had a call, but the guard forgot to take the name or number! Phoned house sitters and they have a house for us in Kennilworths for 2 weeks from the 13th.

In the afternoon we went out to buy me a pair of shoes. Flip flips look so out of place in trendy Jo’burg and my other shoes are rather crispy and yellowing by now. After hours of trekking, Garry bought some but I didn’t, leather is so cheap here.

We arranged to go out with Carrie, Jo, Desi and Sandy, a delectable blonde who’s Carrie’s friend since nursery school. We went to Legends for a meal. It was a lovely meal for £25 for 6 - so we treated them in thanks of their hospitality. From there we went to the pictures, to a 6 screen super modern place in the heart of the city. It was drizzling rain and felt icy on your legs. They say this is the coldest summer they can remember. We caw “A fish called Wanda” and I can honestly say I’ve never laughed so much at a film - can’t wait to see it again.

Trevor came round and we decided to go to the Flea Market with him and Carrie. Were all helping Carrie find things to rub, when a guy rang about the car! He came round to view it in ½ hour, so we spent that time sprucing her up. Garry showed him all over it and they talked for an hour. Looked hopeful but he said he would ring in the next few days.

Mike came with us to the market, what a fabulous place; next to the market is the Railway Theatre. A sort of Covent Garden with a live African band - so nice to see all colours mingling together. There’s an outside pub that sells yards of ale and we bought some, met Heather and Grant. They had a great time in their hire car through Zimbabwe.

Heather came with me and Carrie to look around the market. Brilliant mixture of African crafts, arts and clothes, second-hand and new. We all bought a silk scarf each, trying hundred of different colours to see if they suited. Then I saw a great pair of baggy pants, as we went back to get some more money, a lady was cramming a kitten into a tiny box, Carrie went to ask why and ended up having an argument with her. I bought my trousers and realised Newmans tee-shirt stall was next door. Poor thing - I couldn’t buy a tee-shirt as well!

Bought hotdogs and then raced back to go to see the house at Kennilworths. We found it in a rougher part of the south of town. Our dreams of a swimming pool were quashed when we saw how small it was. Anyway, they were such a nice couple - within 5 minutes they had already invited us to stay on after their return! They had 3 kids, 4 dogs, 16 rabbits, 6 doves and a tank of fish. Luckily their gardener would take care of all the pets. They’ve got a nice telly and video though.

When we got back to Carrie’s, they were all in Desi’s room and we ended up having a huge bundle with pillows. Its so cold, Trevor was parading about in a sleeping bag like a giant caterpillar.

In the evening, when we finished dinner, we went for a quick drink to Dilons and although it was the same band as at Roxsey’s they were playing really heavy stuff - too loud for us oldens, so we left after a couple of drinks!

We went shopping to checkers and when we got back Carrie invited us to go to their parents for lunch. Such nice people aren’t they. Trevor drove us there like a maniac; they’ve got a lovely house that he built himself. Their dad’s a strange one, keeps himself to himself and Trevor doesn’t get on with him. Mums lovely and the girls tell her everything.  She made a lovely lunch with home-made pate, then chicken salad. Turned out to be a nice afternoon -watched a video.

On the way back in the car Carrie made up Jo for a date. Roach arrived from Beitbridge, Trevor went out with him and we stayed in with Desi and Carrie.

Things were looking so desperate on the car front that we phoned Andy Patterson (our dodgy car dealer) and went to see him at 11am, he can do something for us but it will cost R10,000. Tried buying a new air filter but would you believe we can’t get one anywhere in Jo’burg.

I rang an ad for ½ price air tickets to the UK. The travel agents say its illegal to use tickets in another name, but we went to see him anyway. Waited ½ hour, got cold feet and left! Not worth the risk.

When we got home someone rang about the car and came round to look at it. The 2 men looked very much like car dealers and is very suspicious until Garry came in with them and they told us they wanted it! They’re Jehovah Witnesses and need a camper Land Rover for a missionary to live in, in Zambia. They said they’d have to get authority from head office for R58,000 but it would take 3 months for the import permission.

We were on tender hooks all evening and went out to Bimbo’s for a burger just to take our minds off it.

Garry went off in search of an air filter, and I stayed in waiting on the telephone.

At 11am David Wiggel phoned, he was so dead pan and I was sure he was winding me up to say they didn’t want it but he said they did at our price! We still have to sort out the legalities. When I broke the news to Garry, we set about phoning Customs who said it would be illegal to sell in this country unless duty will be paid here.

Next Garry rang Overland to see if they knew about it and guess what, deal old Lawrence has done a bunk and been bought out by Guerba! They couldn’t help us either. We rang Wiggel back to tell him and we suggested we drive the car to Zambia ourselves.

A time for premature celebrations; Garry and I went to Legends for a meal and even a bottle of wine. Afterwards we went to see the beautiful film “The incredible Lightness of Being”, a sensuous unspoken love affair during the Zchez occupation. It lasted 3 hours and the tears streamed down my face. When we got home at 12.30, the house was in silence, so afraid of walking anyone up I made the bed up in the back of the van. We were saved from the cold night by a rather tipsy Jo, who rolled in at 1.30am.

Garry went out to finally buy an air filter which cost £30, and then he changed the oil and generally serviced Landy. While I did a bath full of washing until both hands were bleeding (Oh Bendix, I love you)!

Wiggel rang and said its all arranged for us to deliver Landy to Zambia where they will authorise UK to pay us in our bank account in £s. He also said we can keep the car for 2 weeks to tour South Africa.

So Action Stations - we’re leaving tomorrow. I rang to cancel our house sitting exercise - what an awful thing to do. We told the girls and decided to cook them dinner in appreciation of their kindness. Garry cooked us roast lamb, roast tatties, yorkshire pud (most of them had never had it), carrots, cauli and green beans. I did melon for starters and made a lemon meringue pie for dessert.

Trevor even came round, although he worked till 2 in the morning, last night. It was an easy and relaxed evening.

We were woken up at 6.45 by David Wiggel, saying he had over booked and could we not come down till 11.30. A far more civilised time, we packed away and said our goodbye to the girls.

Driving through the city I saw lots of shoe sales so we parked and I went off in search of my shoes. Hours later I found a blue pair in what can only be described as a night club - I had to take them outside to find out the colour I was buying. They’re very soft Italian leather and only cost £10.

Lucky we left in plenty of time to find Watch Tower as we got lost half a dozen times, David said a large property but it was enormous on a huge plot of land. He drew up a letter of agreement which we were both happy with. Then before we left, showed us around their printing press. They print hundreds of magazines in so many different languages. Everything is one here themselves.

Have a huge computer bank and we were both struck by the cleanliness and order (well it is next to godliness). There are 400 people working here and their housing complex is at the back. We agreed to be back in 2 weeks and set off on holiday.

Had a bad start, when we took the wrong turn off on the motorway and had a row of volume! Spent the next 2 hours driving in silence until we stopped for a coffee in the pouring rain and broke the silence. We entered the Drakensbury mountain region but it was raining heavy so we couldn’t appreciate it. We drove until 6pm and found a campsite in the boring industrial town of Ladysmith.

We thought we’d go to the pictures or eat out to be out of the rain but there was no cinema and only one steakhouse that was empty, so we bought a take-away chicken licken and ate it in the laundry room at the campsite! I’ve never seen such a con-job on juke food we had more cardboard than food!, counted 15 chips each!

We left this drab little campsite at 9am and started on our drive to Durham. Drove past a sad little sore in the beauty bood of this country. A sign post read “Indians Residential Area” and then further on Kafherdrof. How disgusting - I can’t go home supporting this country if these ideas are still practised.

We reached Durham, by 2pm, a modern version of Blackpool, spoiling the beautiful sandy beaches with tons of concrete in every possible shape and form.

Walked along the promenade like a couple of love-sick pensioners but it was too cold and drizzly. We went into the town centre, parked up and went for a snack. Then Garry went to look in a music shop and I said I went to buy a book but I went in another shop to buy a valentines card. He walked in and straight past without noticing me! Went to the Bank and tourist information.

We wanted to leave the commercial centre and within a few kms were the most beautiful natural beaches with huge dunes. Ended up at Winklesponit in a Clacton-type caravan park. As per usual in South Africa it was raining but we still had a braai as it was spitting on and off. We played cards for a while but Garry was zonked from too much driving.

Left the campsite at 9am. As we left the pretty coast, we picked up a hitch hiker; he lives in Durham but was going home to his parents in Kokstad. Mark had just finished his 2 years National Service and is now studying Journalism. He was very friendly and asked us for lunch.

It was such a lovely drive through the green hills and pine forests. He said his father was a lawyer and mother was a ballet teacher so I imagined quite a stiff pair, when we arrived at their pretty little thatched cottage we were welcomed by such a relaxed couple and his 2 sisters, we hit it off straight away and ended up blurting out our whole trip concised into 30 minutes. Only stayed 1½ hours though.

10 minutes later we had entered the independent state of the Transkei. The rolling hills were dotted with traditional shape huts, but of modern construction and properly thatched roofs. Pale green seems a popular colour for them to be painted. I was amazed to see how many cars were parked in the villages.

Understandably, we were getting evil stares from people. For the first time in Africa I saw a lot of blacks horse riding.

We didn’t make it to the coast so at Unitata, the capital, we asked for a campsite, as it was about 6pm. The campsite had a dozen caravans with tatty awnings hanging out, I think these people live here. When we got out of the car, everyone was staring - I had the distinct feeling we shouldn’t be here! A German couple pulled in to increase our numbers but we didn’t want to be seen to just talk to the whites so didn’t! We tried talking to as many people as we could, mentioning we were English tourists, but they weren’t really interested. A brand new Merc pulled in. The owner had come to collect his money and charged us R15 - that’s one to get his own back!

We had a lovely steak and salad and even dessert of custard tart. Went to bed early and read.

We didn’t wake till 8am and it was raining so we packed and left without breakfast or incidence. There were so many birds of prey along the roadside.

Driving through a small town we were stopped by a black policeman for speeding. He said we were doing 90klms per hour, which is quite impossible uphill, but when we said we were tourists he let us go.

Soon we were at the border - what a farce - we had to have our passports stamped and then again on the South African side. Drove through the Ciskei and then at Alexandria we left the main road to the coast.

What a beautiful choice, we found ourselves at Palm Springs on the mouth of the river and the coast. The campsite was the only access to the beach so it was deserted. There’s a golf course on the top bank and TV room etc.

As soon as we arrived we put our cossies on and went to the beach as the sun was shining for the first time since we left Jo’burg. But the water was freezing so we walked over the rock pools for hours. How relaxing a walk by the sea is. Afterwards I did my sketch and was totally contented with the warmth on my back. The owner came to chat and said if we can’t sell Landy in Zambia (heaven forbid) he wanted to buy it. He bought this piece of heaven, as he put it, 4 years ago for £60,000 - lucky man.

An old couple from Wiltshire came to chat as well - they’ve been travelling, every year a new place since 1972 and look good for it.

The wind made it quite chilly later on, so we sat in the TV lounge, put the radio on, had a glass (mug) of wine and read and wrote my diary. The wine’s great here, we bought a 5 litre box for R10 (£2.50).

Bang goes our game of golf, its raining again. So we sat under the semi shade of a tree and ate our breakfast. I’d love to have been able to spend a couple of days here but we left anyway at 9.30.

Had such a pretty drive through the pine forests and mountains on one side with the sandy coast on the other.

After Port Elizabeth we were officially on the Garden route, aptly named. No wonder the South Africans appreciate it as its so green compared to the rest of the country. There’s bay upon bay of pretty sand dunes with gentle rivers meeting the rough ocean.

Stopped early at 2.30pm in the Tsitskama Forest and Coastal National Park. A sheep mountain pass brought us out to the rocky shore line. It was blustery so we wrapped up in our mildew smelling jackets and went for a walk up to the gorge but it started raining so headed back. Went for a coffee in the restaurant watching the giant rollers crashing over the rocks.

Such a beautiful place must be paradise when the sun shines. Everywhere you look are hoogies (fat giant mice)!!

We borrowed a braai from the shop and cooked our home made burgers with cheese, jacket potatoes and salad. When we finished eating, a couple from Cape Town came over to talk about their trip. He had been to South America for 8 months and would love to be able to travel Africa. I went for a bath and they were still with Garry when I got back. They didn’t got till 11pm.

Garry loved his card I made but he doesn’t love me, cos I didn’t get one!

What a view to eat your breakfast to - our senses are by now spoilt rotten. All along this coast road is stunning scenery and we stopped at the Great Brak river to take some photos. Later in the day as the road left the coast the terrain got dryer as we entered the little karroo. We turned off the road and went to Still Bay. It was a quite little town, probably for retirement but nice for 1 night. The sun was actually shining when we first arrived at the campsite, so we stopped off and relaxed. We parked one side of a huge sand dune, the other side looked out to 14klms of untouched beach. Unfortunately after an hour it clouded over and started raining lightly, so we went for a drive to find a coffee shop. This town is dead, there’s no such thing - we found one hotel but as we were going into the bar a large sign read “No Women Allowed”! I was amazed in this day and age. They have enough prejudices to keep them busy with other races let alone different sexes!

When back at the campsite, we made our own coffee in the rain. I cooked crumbed pork, gem squash and mash. Then we went for a lovely walk along the beach before sunset. We found a jelly fish the size of a dustbin lid and a dead penguin. Blew the cobwebs out when we had a race back to Landy.

Had a long drive from Still Bay with nothing much to look at except sheep and sun baked fields.

We made a decision to divert from the main road and go to the southern most tip of Africa. Took a minor road through real Vorstrekker country. Stopped for lunch in a boring Dutch type town called Bredasdorp. Drove on to Agulhas - managed to take Landy out onto the rocks to join in on this momentous occasion. This rocky out crop didn’t look much but meant a great deal to us - we’ve travelled the length and breadth of this colourful continent and have been permanently infected by its passion. We walked out to the furthest rock and tried to see where the Indian and Atlantic oceans meet as locals insist you can, but sadly it all looked the same. Collected some lovely unusual shells then left for somewhere to stay.

For the first time in South Africa we drove on a dirt track to Hermanns and stepped back in time. We drove through a tiny village lined with Dutch style thatched cottages and bare-foot children of all colour played together.

At Hermanns we drove quite a distance out of our way to Sonesha, a huge holiday complex and learnt that it was closed. This was all done in sign language and process of elimination, as the guard only spoke Afrikaans. It was 5.30pm by now and we were tired from the heat and drive and had to drive another 100klms to the next campsite. We got to Stand Bay at 7pm and found another cramped in pretty, pretty residential caravan park. The owner was very helpful, lent us his braai and gave us a huge plot by a tiny stream. We cooked dinner in the dark (by now our tube light and rear working light have long since broken). There was a gale howling through the trees and so we went to bed early to read.

Breakfasted, bathed and left for Cape Town early. The scenery became hilly and greener as we got close. It was a perfect cloudless day as we arrived and just as we were wondering where Table Mountain was, we saw it overseeing the town. Our first priority was to find an Amex Office and it presented itself to us without us doing anything. I received the promptest service ever and walked out with my travellers cheques after 10 minutes. We then drove around the harbour area trying to find freight companies. The one that would send such small quantities was Renfreight, but they wanted to charge £230 and insurance for the minimum 1 cubic metre. That took Garry an hour of waiting to find out.

As we drove around the town, I immediately fell in love with it. We parked up and walked to the pretty Green Market square, a tree lined cobbled square with a trendy flea market going on. Overlooking this is a hotel with lovely terrace so we ordered 2 coffees and watched Capetonian life. Listened to the somewhat flat singing of an African, singing for his supper. We left and wandered the market. I bought a cheap replica of my beloved and lost forever raybans. It was then that we noticed amongst this holiday atmosphere a riot van with a dozen or so black riot police, armed with pump action shotguns. We then heard chanting as 2 buses drove past full of blacks and the white police discontinuously moved them on ASAP. This caused quite a crowd to gather and there were camera men and reporters running around everywhere. We went to get our camera and when we got back learnt that the commotion was caused by a service being held in St. Georges church, in the square for the detainees on hunger strike.

We hung around, caught up in the excitement and were asked to move on a couple of times. It doesn’t seem possible that this peaceful action - on both sides (the government have just announced that they will be releasing another 120 without charge) could lead to violence. But more police appeared and then the church service ended. This pretty square, sunny and colourful, the church hymns ringing through it, full of riot vans, police and naughty looking weapons! What a world we have made.

Then, we heard a reporter ask Mr Tutu for a report. Sure enough, the tiny figure of Bishop Desmond Tutu, calm in his mauve cassock stood just 10ft from us. There was no problems from anyone except we all wanted a look and the police grew more and more nervous as the crowds grew.

Through loud speakers they moved everyone away, while reporters interviewed the clergy. Then a water cannon arrived and we decided it was time we left. We learnt that all the hunger strikes have stopped as a result of the government’s announcement to free most of the detainees. A step in the right direction but somewhat late in the day after being pressurised by such drastic measures.

There’s no campsite in town so we had to drive 40k outside to a dismal caravan park by the side of a motorway. Had a lovely dinner of Houmous and Pitta bread then lamb chops and salad.

Garry rang Sylvia from the public phone box while I sorted out our things to be sent home.

I’ve decided, much to Garry disgust that we can’t pay that amount of money for freight without looking around for a cheaper alternative. So I rang the Post Office and they charge R40 per 10 kilos but it takes 3 months and everything we sent must be packed in 10k parcels. We went to town and found the tourist information office, they sent us to another Freight company but although they were helpful couldn’t do much better than Ren.

We went into SAA and they told us we would be able to send it as unaccompanied baggage on the same flight as us at a fraction of the price. That problem solved, we went off to the famous Table Mountain.

There was an awfully long queue to take the cable car to the top and we waited an hour or so. It was a lovely ride, though, on one side the panoramic view of Cape Town and Lions Hill the other, the craggy mountains looked too close for comfort. The top really is flat as a table top and home to some rare and delicate wild flowers. We took an hour long walk around the top, marvelling at the beautiful sandy beaches in town! Bought an orange juice and pastie and Garry petted the dassies, fat from two many titbits while I preferred to watch the timid mice clearing up scraps.

We left after watching 2 mountaineers leap over the side and headed straight for the gold sands we saw as a yellow doormat from the top.

Only 5 minutes from the city centre, this idyllic beach was nearly empty, so spoilt for choice are the people here. Two guys were playing with a boomerang and it was actually coming back to them, their Rottweiler was digging holes fervently, so big that all that could be seen was his bum and a shower of sand. A few men were changing from their office clothes to swimming trunks! We put on ours straight away and went enthusiastically to the turquoise waters. It was numbingly freezing!! I tried to persevere but my bones ached and that was only up to my knees!

Its the coldest water I’ve ever felt - no wonder no-one was swimming - its worse than seeing a mirage. Garry dived in and out just as quickly.

Oh, the pleasure of laying on a beach with the sun warming your body and soul is unequalable! We stayed until 6pm then drove south to find a campsite. The coast road took us high above the bays and coves and the views were spectacular after each new bend.

At last, we found a nice secluded caravan park in South Africa. Just over the road from yet another sweeping bay with blue Cape Mountains as a back drop; each site had 3 thick hedges around it, a braai and a tap. It was only R12 - the same as the rest. They had washing machines! I threw in our dirtiest clothes and then had a hot bath. Garry called me over to see some tiny chicks following their mum, a haughty looking black and white bird with long orange legs.

We went out to dinner to a kind of up-market family café. The food was excellent and so was Garry’s willpower - Salad again!

On the way back we tried to find a push button phone to speak to Ken before he goes to Kenya for 6 weeks. There were loads of dial booths but you can’t make International calls from these. After 1 ½ hours, however we gave up and hoped Sylv wouldn’t worry too much.

Although the past week has been holiday, we haven’t stayed in one place for more than overnight, so it was lovely this morning to just sit outside in the sunshine and watch the birds and do nothing.

The campsite manager let Garry use his phone to call Ken and he ended up chatting to the manager for hours. In this short time I got quite sun burnt. In the afternoon we drove to town to visit the castle. We were quite disappointed with it, as it was supposed to have been built in 1666 but didn’t look it. We did see some lovely oil paintings though. We went for a coffee at Green Market Hotel but the shops and market was closed so the atmosphere wasn’t the same. The stall holders were packing away and an excellent Sax player was being rivalled by a joker trying to sing and dance.

We did some shopping and went back to the campsite. Had a nice pate salad.

After breakfast and more washing (I’m fascinated by this new gadget, the washing machine!) We walked to the beach again, each person had about a ½ acre plot of sand each! It hummed a bit here of rotting seaweed baking in the sun but we got used to that. It must be great fishing ground here, as the horizon was a mass of coloured dots of fishing boats.

We must have walked 7 or 8klms and that was just round one bay there and back. It was a nice walk though and I was ever envious of the hoof prints in the sand. I promise myself, one day, I’ll go horse riding along a beach!

We got back at 1pm and hid under the small area of shade left. We were both lobster colour and couldn’t get comfortable. After a snack for lunch we decided to set off now as we couldn’t do anything more in the sun anyway.

By 2.30 we were ready. Again, the route was beautiful through the Great Karoo mountain range and on to acres upon acres of vineyards.

We only drove 150klms and arrived at Worcester, the heart of the wine growing estates. Found a lovely holiday resort with chalets and an empty caravan park, but there was no manager, so we took a dip in the swimming pool. That was so appreciated after our sticky drive. We reckoned the temperature out there today was about 37°C! We saw the manager after and set up camp. Cooked a nice spanish omelette and watched the full moon rise over the mountains. I fed a horse and donkey an apple which delighted us all!

The radiator developed a leak!!

We didn’t wake up till nearly 8am, so I had a quicky bath with a million ants and half a dozen surallours.

We had been warned that this next part of our journey would be mind numbingly boring and soon there was nothing to look at but scorched grass and a sheep every other kilometre.

We bought some Radweld for the leaky naughty rad, and Wimpy burgers and ate them driving along. Garry then said that Landy was loosing power. So we stopped and the air filter, that cost an arm and a leg 2 weeks ago, was clogged thick with oil. We took it out and drove slowly to the next town 80klms further. It was a wild west village and an old man who had just had tracheotomy, gave us the disastrous news, that the rings were going! They didn’t have any air filters and told us to go to Beaufort West, 230klms further on. It was a hot, unpleasant drive, with our depressing news. At Beaufort West we pulled into the first descent looking garage. They told us the rings would possibly last another 12-15,000klms. To disconnect the pipe that was letting oil into the air filter and carry on driving it. They fitted the new pipe and didn’t even charge us labour. We decided it best to drive under the coolness of night and set off again for Kimberley.

Not 10klms up the road, we smelt burning oil and stopped to look under the bonnet. The rocker cover and everything near was covered in oil and it was leaking out everywhere. Annoyed with ourselves for not going straight to Zambia we turned back and as all the garages were closed went to the caravan park.

Two unhappy people, we went to bed after fish cakes, beans and mash. Played a silly drawing competition and ended up having a laugh. I couldn’t sleep and spent hours doing crosswords.

Garry was up at 7am but not looking forward to the day ahead. I fell back to sleep until he got back from showering.

This time we went to a diesel garage and he told us straight away the rings have gone and will have to be replaced immediately. Gloomy, we waited for 2 hours while he rang around the whole country trying to get the parts. Eventually, he found the rings in Cape Town and pistons in Jo’burg then told us it would cost R65000!!! (£1500). Astounded, we weighed up what to do, if we crawled into Jo’burg, the parts might be a bit cheaper, but we would be late taking the car to Wiggel - if we don’t get to Zambia by 16th March, our carnet expires and that could mean all sorts of trouble. Reluctantly, we told him to go ahead with the work and shopped around for the cheapest accommodation in town. Luckily, it turned out o be the hotel next door to the garage and it was the only one with a swimming pool.

I stayed in the room all afternoon sulking I suppose, but it did turn out rewarding as I drew a nice picture of affie.

I went round to see Garry at the garage at 5pm and, wait for this, they can’t find anything wrong with it. A compression test proved normal and after a test drive, no oil leaked out. They rang Land Rover, who said its got too much oil in, but we know for a fact that its never been overfilled as Garry checks it every morning without fail!

I think its good news but its still baffling and obviously somewhere something is wrong. The manager wasn’t there when we left so we left Landy in hospital to recouperate and went to Wimpy for dinner. Garry and I both had a headache after such a shocking day so just read and wrote all evening. Actually there’s nothing else to do in this town anyway.

We went to the garage as soon as we were ready and the manager kept us waiting for nearly 2 hours. The bill in the end, still came to £80, as they did spend 8 hours investigating!

We went for a lovely breakfast at Wimpy’s while we were waiting and left the excitement of Beaufort West at about 11.30.

The arid landscape and heat sent me to sleep and after a few hours and Garry didn’t wake me till we arrived at Kimberley. It was 5.30 by then and the sun was still shining. It was a trez chic caravan park, built in victorian style.

I cooked a nice chilli con carnet, just before it started raining. A sure sign we are getting close to Jo’burg.

Woke to a sunny morning and was ready to leave by 8am. I was quite excited to see this Big Hole. They still have the original tram system in operation that takes you around the town but we were straight into an exiting era of diamond mining in the 19th century.

The Big Hole looked like Grays Pit but the village museum was great, there were shoe shops, tobacconists, pubs, pawn shops and everything else to make for a town square in 1910. We were so enthralled we ran off in different direction to be the first to see new exhibits. The smallest detail had been taken into account. Topped off with a diamond exhibition. From all the fanciest (diamonds of different colours) to the 616, the largest uncut diamond in the world. Diamonds are a girls best friend!

We had to leave the sparklers at 11.30.

Got close to Jo’burg, with a black cloud handing over it. Welcome back! Arrived at the girls house at about 4pm and was given such a wonderful home-coming. I felt like part of the family. Hugs all round - they have a delightful caring that us Brits are afraid of! Achim’s in town, Garry and Trevor collected him and then we went for a drink at Roomers. Us girls came home but the others went on to Dilons. They came back very drunk and loud at 2am. Jo and I were sharing the rest of the Konyagi!

We rang Watch Tower early and then at 10am drove down to them. They have the most incredible workshop there. Another Land Rover was already kitted out. The young mechanics there were so impressed in Landy that they were talking about travelling Africa, impossible on their R16 per month allowance.

We were driven home by an ex Barclays man now a committed witness. We went shopping on the way back and I changed some money at Nedbank. With all the armed robberies their cashiers were just sitting at ordinary desks!

When we got back we went looking at cars with Trevor. We went a long way out of town to rolling green fields, home of the rich, each complete with tennis courts, swimming pools and horses. Back into town, by which time it was raining, to see a Corolla. The man was so arrogant, wouldn’t let them test drive it or look under the bonnet, that they left him with a flea in his ear.

Trevor went out in the evening and we went to Bimbos with Achim for dinner. When we got back we were locked out and sat on the porch for ½ hour till Des came back with 6 friends. Achim went out for a night on the town and found a german restaurant, where he abated his craving for sauerkraut.

He didn’t get in till 3am, when he woke us up to let him in.

By the time we roused our pretty little heads at 8.30, the house was empty - such early birds!

There wasn’t much to do without a car, so we just caught up with Achim’s news and read.

We briefly saw Carrie and don’t think she’s happy about Achim staying - understandably, but is too nice to say anything. Fodge came round for us at 12 and we went to the Flea market. It was a scorcher of a day, so we headed straight for the beer garden. Then walked around this colourful and exciting haven for youthful South Africans. We stopped for a while and chatted to Newman and I bought Carrie some yellow ducks. Just a soon as I bought the plastic variety a girl came to the stall with a real one - bright yellow fluffy down, so new!

We sat in the shade of the Market Theatre, enjoying the rhythms of a sax player and the warmth of the place. Went to the Theatre to see a photo exhibition and children’s art far beyond their years.

Met Trevor, Carrie and Sandra but Trev had some hassle with his father and wasn’t in a good mood plus him and Fodge aren’t on speaking terms so it was a bit difficult. Also Sandra just had her purse stolen and obviously wasn’t impressed. I didn’t realise but she’s German, so her and Achim clucked away for ages.

Fodge took us home at about 5pm and kindly invited us to go out with him and Newman for dinner. Later I was sorry we agreed cos Trevor wanted to go out with us, being our last Saturday. Fodge arrived with Newman at 7pm and we went to the Black Shear, a very popular steak house for the affluent. We had a great meal and Newman explained how serious him and Fodge diet and train their beautiful bodies. I personally don’t know whey they bother with such discipline.

Again we woke up to an empty house, Carrie and Jo stayed away at a friends last night so we had a quiet morning with Achim. He rang Fodge and he will take Achim back to the youth hotel. Fodge kindly invited us to dinner at his parents tonight, so that will be nice.

He arrived with his brother in a lovely Merc and drove us the pretty way, showing off the posh housing areas.

Their house was magnificent and the landscaped garden rolling down to the swimming pool would have made a good feature in Home and Garden magazine. On the outside, they appear to be the “perfect” family, 3 boys who all get on, Dad’s an up-to-date modern lawyer and mum has a pottery studio where she teaches at the back, next to the garage that houses a mint condition E-type, among others. She worked so hard at giving a lovely dinner party. The boys prepared and braaied baby kingclip fish with lemon and there was salads and cheesy baked potatoes, washed down with best South African wine. It was a nice evening and an insight into the way the upper class live.

Trevor was supposed to have the day off college to look at cars with us, so we got up early and waited and waited but to no avail.

We went shopping at Rocky street for hours looking for “thank you presents” for the girls but didn’t find anything. They had another new cleaner start today. In 2 months, they’ve had a Evelyn, Salvation, Gladness and now Ethel. She had 2 lovely children with her. They were so good, the little boy of about 4 looked after baby sister all day - even cuddled her until she went to sleep.

When we got back from the shops, Carrie, Jo and their mum was home, had a chat then Trevor came round (he did go to college) and Garry went to look at a beetle with him. I rang Keith Wiggell, and although we told them not to worry about it, they’ve taken the engine out of Landy to replace that rear main seal that’s had a slight leak since Spain! Also they can’t get a new windscreen so they’re making one!

Needless to say, the car won’t be ready tomorrow. Our waiting game will have to continue now till Thursday. I rang British Airways and I’ve found out that we can send our things as Excess Unaccompanied baggage which will arrive at the same time as us and costs less than freight.

Went with Trevor to Duel Street, (the road with about 10 garages in) to try to find him a car. I got bored out of my tiny mind looking after the car. He found a nice Toyota, but as usual it was much more than we could afford and he was seriously considering paying the rest by HP (lay-by as its called here) at 30% interest. We tried to put him off. Luckily when we got home the local paper was out and he saw one within his price range advertised locally.

Him and Garry went to see it and then went round to Luke’s cool dude daddy.

Jo came home from work incredibly drunk and tried to lecture the plebs on the meaning of poetry. We decided to go to the pictures, but couldn’t organise ourselves in time for the early session, so went to the 9pm one. Luke and Wallace came too and we paid for drunken Jo to go - who performed a sit down protest when asked to move from the centre aisle!

The film turned out to be a second rate home video “Married to the Mob” with Michelle Pfeiffer.