Woke up to the sound of the win again and was surprised to see Achim’s tent still standing. Too windy for breakfast so packed up and drove a few kilometres to a small village. The only hotel did tea and I think the first time they had entertained Wazunga’s. We had to supply our own milk and gave Mamma some.

Drove all morning and arrived in Tukuki at 12, but there wasn’t any restaurant there so settled for a horrid cup of tea and chunk of bread and blue band. Did manage to buy a bottle of Konyagi for Ioob’s friends in Harare.

Stopped on the road to change clothes courtesy of the border officials. Checked that our money was in order. Everyone had warned us to expect trouble from both the Tanzanians and Malawi officials but they were really friendly and we had no problem. In fact, as we reached the Malawi border the officials went out of their way in welcoming us. After hiding our shoe string book, they just asked us to bring in all our books so we decided which ones were suitable. Soon we were walking along the shores of beautiful Lake Malawi.

In Karanga, found a government rest house and they even cooked us eggs, rice and salad. Lovely, lovely people. Sat in their lounge and played cards. Garry and Achim raved over their Carlsberg beers!

Decided to stay here for the day. Kenson (the cook - everyone is named ……..son) used our bread and eggs to make us fried eggs and fried bread. Then we went to the bank as we didn’t have one Kwatchon. This simple task took us 2 hours of queuing. Back in the shade of the rest house we did some accounts and much needed catching up on writing.

For lunch we walked into town. Incredibly hot! Found a lovely clean little restaurant and had the usual rice and meet with salad. The menus read well but by popular demand the only food available is Ugali rice and meat.

Tried walking around the market and shops but the heat drove us quickly back. Garry and Achim sat on the beach while I did some necessary washing.

Walked back into town for dinner and after doing a tour of all the restaurants in search of variety ended up in the same one as lunchtime and even ate the same thing with the addition of beans.

This must be the darkest town I’ve ever been in and we stumbled back miraculously missing all the ditches. The watchman had taken my washing in and ironed it while we were away, so he joined us for a beer. Then we had a serious poker game with matchsticks.

Although we didn’t ask for it Kenson made us coffee and bread - such a nice man.

Left there at 8.30 - Garry’s’ got a rotten cold so I packed away. As we were leaving town saw a big Rest House so stopped for a good breakfast there. Next to it was the supermarket so we bought some bits before leaving town.

Drove south to the Livingstonia turn off which took us higher and higher along narrow winding track to 2000ft above the lake. Breathtaking scenery with green rolling hills, high above the blue lakes.

Found the most beautiful Rest House overlooking the lake to camp at. They made us tea on the veranda! Achim and I then walked down, down a tiny path for 3 miles to the Manchewe Falls. Along the way people stopped and chatted to us. Spectacular view of the 60m falls among the forest. Garry met us by the car and we saw a crowd of people on the way back. We stopped and they invited us for Miller Beer - awful stuff but they were all high as kites and started fighting with each other to have our address, so we left. A South African girl, Charlotte, came to ask us for a lift, apparently there hasn’t been a vehicle up here for a week!

Had a glorious hot bath, although the water did run black. Cooked our own breakfast and ate it on the veranda, overlooking the valley and lake.

When we arrived at the colonial stone house, the museum was closed as it was Sunday. Met Charlotte and she loaded her baggage in. Was cosy to say the least in the back with 2 backpackers.

Drove slowly down the mountain, then on a good tarmac road all the way until Romphi. A dusty one horse town, leaving to no-where except the national park. Over the usual fish and rice lunch, we met an American, who we first saw in Zanzibar. He and his girlfriend had been waiting there 3 days but no other vehicles had gone to the reserve. We had to refuse them and after stocking up on the only commodities available, bread and tomatoes, headed off to the park.

I couldn’t imagine being in cool green rolling hills in 100klms time but sure enough the scenery is greener the higher we climbed. It was a beautiful drive, the hills covered in trees of autumn colours. We were all silent with appreciation as we entered the park and were surrounded by pine forest. The air was damp in the immaculate campsite with cabins for fires with firewood and toilets supplied.

We cooked a concoction of eggs, cabbage and potatoes with tomato sauce. Huddled around a blazing fire all evening.

I woke up early and at 6.30 I strolled around the campsite in the crisp morning air, admiring the many buck we saw in the meadow.

Achim cooked us Spanish scrambled eggs for breakfast. Took us an eternity to get our act together but eventually we arrived at the office at 11. No guides were available until 1pm. The offices here are so professional and it appears serious research is going on. I walked on my own fascinated by the tiny birds of all colours and wild flowers from the like of highlands in Scotland. The new fern and grasses were so fresh and a tasty diet for all the herbivores here. The guard was ready for 1pm in immaculate uniform, even spats and gun. The gun was necessary he said, in case of poachers and if we broke down. All the same Garry got paranoid over it. We drove higher and higher up the rolling hills until we were all freezing, not that it mattered to us as we were all totally absorbed in the scenery.

The darkness and delight overcame me. We saw some big birds, bush buck, reed buck, mony majestic roan antelope and even 1 sable antelope. Drove as far as the view point and gazed out to the hundreds of hills, the clouds weighing heavy on their shoulders. We were back at 5.30 and busy checking the names of the birds we saw. Dinner wasn’t very successful - mung beans and dhal with rice and cabbage. I think it was the altitude and cold that made us so sleepy and by 10 we were all in bed.

It felt even colder this morning at 6.30 when I went for a lovely walk. Although I didn’t see many animals it was a delight.

For breakfast I made a giant saucepan of porridge and then we went onto the toast. Breakfasts are getting bigger everyday! Then the mist went from drizzle to a downpour and we seized our chance of learning how to play bridge. Its quite complicated to get the hang of, but by 1.30 we had grasped the basics and I like it.

Had a lovely drive down to Rumphi, after leaving Charlotte alone there. I had a “it’s a great world and I’m lucky to be here” mood on as we blasted out Jimi Hendrix. Everyone waved to us and at Rumphi, we ate rice and meat in the same restaurant, with 2 lovely waiters. Went to the government rest house and camped under a mango tree. Then still hungry and cos we had no food of our own, went in search of something except meat and rice to eat. Alas, no chance and we ended up back at the same restaurant, this time though we were honoured to have vegetables as well! Why is good food such a problem here when the land is so fertile?

Back at the car, I read while Garry took a cold bath. Rumphi is as hot in the evening as Nykia is at its best summer day! The change in climate didn’t agree with us and we all felt a bit strange!

Back at the same restaurant for breakfast we asked for egg, chips and toast and first got a plate of egg and chips then when that was finished they gave us gypsy toast with more eggs! Left for Mzuzu at 8.30 and we were there by 11.30.

Went to change money and the indian man even let me change a euro cheque. He gave us some contacts for Zimbabwe and told us there was a good cheapy Italian restaurant just opened.

Went first for a good coffee in Mzuzu hotel, very posh but 9 coffee’s only cost 50p (4 ½ kwacha). Got talking to the Air Malawi ref and he told us he might know someone interested in the car here. After a great lunch of steak, chips, rice, egg and salad for £1 each and vanilla ice-cream. Went to the PCT and met the Kiwi couple from Mrs Roche’s, posted my Christmas cards then back to the hotel, but the man said he couldn’t contact his friend cos the power supply was off. Made some more enquiries about the car but nothing of any real value, so we left this neat and efficient little town for Nkata Bay. At 6pm we turned the last bend and saw the bay before us. Again the government rest house looked better and safer than the others, so we camped there. Walked into town in the evening and ended up in a disco/bar just like a youth club with chairs all round the outside and the people dancing their feet off! At 10, we called it a night and left Achim in the bus station bar! A huge storm was brewing and we got wet walking back up the hill.

Woke up to a torrential downpour. Gathered our breakfast things from the car and took refuge inside the rest house. Achim cooked a tidy tomato omelette and Michael and the others buzzed around us trying to do everything for us.

I sat down with determination and wrote 10 Christmas cards and letters. The others played chess and cards. How self-righteous I felt when I was eventually finished hours later. By this time, the rain had let off but left rivers winding over all the land. We decided not to leave here today as the beach road is supposed to be hairy at the best of times. The cook said he would get us a chicken for tonight.

Walked down to the town and back up (this place is all hills) to the Post office. Had a walk around the sad little market and at the many second-hand clothes on sale for extortionate prices. There were two mud huts where the carvers were and although they have an easy life they didn’t have that much there!

No chicken, no eggs or bread! So we cooked rice with tomatoes and onions and a dhal curry which was nice but lacked any substance. Had a good mean game of skate!

It rained most of the night and was still viciously attacking us when we got up.

We still had enough eggs for breakfast but when we tried cooking them ½ were off. No such thing as quality control here!

For £1 they kindly did all our washing for us, what a life!

Walked into town with Garry to try to buy some food. The main bridge had been washed away in the floods so that meant no bread. Went for a drink in “probably the best restaurant in the world”, poor place, or not so much poor, they’re happy eating Nsima and rice. A lovely clever little boy was the only person in the mud hut bar and told us we could have anything we liked to eat as long as it was eggs, which he promptly went out to buy. Anyway he did serve up a tasty omelette and we chatted for a while over his schoolbook - Johny Napoleon!

When we got back, the cook had managed to get us the scrawniest chicken alive! Although we hit jackpot and got another one. As they went into the oven they looked like 2 nude sparrows. We remember in the nick of time it was Achim’s 37th birthday and we bought him a ½ bottle of scotch to go with our roast chicken dinner. Had a good evening and talked for ages with the staff - although the rain brought with it an army of dumb termites swarming over everything!

Just for a change it was raining this morning. With no bread or eggs we ate a gallon of porridge. After talking to Barnabus in the Rest House, he has talked us into going to his island, Licoma. The boat leaves tonight at 10pm so we’re going for 3 days.

Garry and Achim played a serious game of chess on our lovely soapstone set. In the afternoon we walked into town and to Johnny’s café and we decided to take a walk to Chacende beach with him.

In the heat of the afternoon it was hard work up and down hills, but it was a beautiful spot when we got there. We went swimming but Johnny couldn’t - he said cos he was afraid of crocodeles! The amazing thing was he said he didn’t like this lovely beach, and when we asked what his favourite food was he answered without a doubt, Msima and rice!

Said goodbye to Michael and the others at the Rest House and went for meat and rice before dubiously leaving Landy at the Police station. It couldn’t have been easier to get on board the modern ferry. African music was blaring out and people bopping on deck! It efficiently left dead on 10 and we settled down to sleep under the stars on the upper deck.

At 4.30 we reached the island and scrambled on board a small boat to take us ashore. Barnabus took us to his government guest house, we were led through the winding path between huts and baobabs. Found our way along the tiny paths to the pretty square. It’s laid out on crazy paving, paid for by German Aid in an attempt to stop soil erosion. In the restaurant we had a great breakfast of scones, eggs and tea and learned that the rest house next door was only 6K each so apologised to Barnabus and went there instead. Everything is immaculately clean and at this early hour the women were sweeping away the last specs of dirt. Slept for a few hours then had a refreshing shower before going for a walk around. Although I wouldn’t have believed it possible, the people are even friendlier than on the mainland and being the only whites here everyone smiled and stopped to say hello.

This island has no electricity and for the first time in our travels - no cars. The island is a maze of tiny trails and we followed one a short way along the coast for a glorious swim in the turquoise lake. Swimming out to some rocks, without a mask, you could make out vivid blue and mauve fish. With the mask it was transformed to a marine paradise with a rainbow of different coloured fish.

Before dinner, we walked around the village chatting to everyone and one man Leslie took us into his house and in the mud courtyard showed us his family, mamma was making beer in a huge pot and their tranquil family life relies on a delicate balance of subsistence farming. Although there is such poverty here I couldn’t help but waste my dinner - Cat fish and rice, but lake fish is so soft and like eating fishy margarine with dry rice. The darkness didn’t help and my imagination worked overtime!

Our tin roof was a good reason for us to get up early. At breakfast they had no eggs, so it was dry bread and tea. The shop didn’t have any food for sale and we were worried about starving. We took a walk to the shop near the harbour for food and we met Barnabus. We had some tea at the shop and were chuffed to buy eggs and Jam and Marg. Barnabus told us he would take us for a short stroll to show us a new house he was proud of. This turned into a major expedition but it was a lovely walk through another village where custom calls for you to say hello to everyone. The house was a nice thatched bungalow but not worth the 4klm hike! On the way back a toothless old lady sold us more eggs under the shade of a baobab. Leslie was supposed to take us round the island at 11 but didn’t arrive and some others told us he was cuckoo and had probably forgotten, so we went swimming for hours instead. It was so hot that we hid in the shade from the midday sun.

It was one round of cooling off in the lake or taking a shower. We pulled ourselves a chicken for dinner, so things were looking up. I’m totally transfixed with the beauty of this place geographically but more so the warmth of the people. Found ourselves a nice rock to watch the sunset over the platinum sky.

Chicken and rice was great as was the company in the bar afterwards. We then played cards on the veranda, entertained by the most social drunk I’ve met.

A swim after breakfast was supposed to be an adventure to the uninhabited island ½ km out but the lake was unexpectedly rough and we thought better of it. Barnabus came with us and he used a snorkel and mask for the first time.

After meditating and soaking up this place, we went with Maria and Barnabus to see the Cathedral. A truly beautiful church, the biggest in central Africa, built by the Scots in 1906. I can’t think of a better way to make the “natives” feel inferior. Such extravagance would make anyone believe! The caretaker was so animated by the place it was infectious although he couldn’t understand a word of Chewewa.

Went swimming again to cool off and when we met Achim he told us 5klms round the coast he saw crocodiles and monitor lizards. So pleased he was, that we set off to see it for ourselves. After 1klm over the rocks, Garry gave up so I went alone. Such lovely people made me welcome, giving me mangos, as I wound my way over the rocks and through peoples gardens. I didn’t see any crocs and had to return as the sun was getting low. When I reached the village an old man gave me a ticking off as he said my husband was worried. I hurried back and found Garry fretting! Chicken and rice again before a game of Yams, and then at 10pm we went for a skinny dip to cool off - idyllic!

Our time here is too short - already we had to leave the island belonging to a lost era. After breakfast we went for our last swim but the lake was being engaged for another use - men’s bathroom. So I discretely walked further over the rocks and after a nice swim a lady who lived nearby greeted me and hand in hand walked me to the courtyard outside her hut. Mamma, daughter and baby were all eagerly chatting in Chewewa to me and wanted my address (although it would never be possible to communicate), I promised to return with it later, which I did although time was getting short.

We exchanged addresses via a schoolboy who could write and I gave her some knickers. Had to leave for the harbour as soon as I got back but it took another 2 hours to get everyone aboard by the 2 small fishing boats. Organisation not being one of their strongest virtues, it resembled an exodus from a burning ship! However, once on board it was spacious enough with African music and drinks for us to relax and enjoy the view passing round the other side of Licoma and its smaller sister island. We met Tony who pointed out a cloud of Lake Fly on the horizon and then gave us our very own Mkhunga (fly burger) to try - which I bravely did. Very fishy! There was a large as life group of 5 Yanks - who were actually quite nice once we got chatting.

Maria came to find us and took us to the bridge to meet her brother-in-law, the Captain. By the time we docked our floor was alive with boogying and waited an hour for the crowds to get off. Dear little Johnny was waiting for us and we actually ????? meat and rice and beans before going back to Crawly Michael’s Rest House, for the night.

Had a very cold bath before breakfast, and then set off back to Mzuzu. We quickly went round the market, there was a witch-doctor there today, bones, hooves and different sorts of bark and twigs for all ailments. I changed some more money with our friendly Indian, then as we were too early for our promised lunch at Tropicana, treated ourselves to the good coffee in the Mzuzu Hotel. They even remembered us there!

At the restaurant, food from the Savoy couldn’t have tasted better although it was only Spaghetti Bolognaise, but with real cheese!

In the last few days Achims got moodier and moodier. Today he told Garry he’s sexually frustrated but that’s no excuse to be so rude to us. I think we will have to leave him in Lilongwe to find his own way.

We drove solid all afternoon along the hilly road to the capital. It was surprisingly quiet and apart from the odd small village were all forestry plantations. We drove until 5.30 when we stopped at the first town Kasungu, for the night. Found the government rest house, which wasn’t up to much but OK for one night. On a dirty wood stove I cooked pasta with tomato and mushroom sauce, which we ate in silence. Garry’s got the shits, I’ve got a bad stomach and we were all bad tempered. Not a perfect day. We did get a lovely hot bath there, which was welcome.

Achims not even speaking to us now, so we set of straight away to Lilangwe. We arrived there at about 11 and met Scott and Diana on their way North. They’ve decided to take the plunge and drive to England. It was nice to see them again - they’re such a laugh.

We found the Golf club where you can camp. We haven’t seen such luxury since Kenya. It’s 10k each per night to camp but this entitles you to daily membership so hopefully we can have a round of golf before we go. Its ideal to meet here about selling Landy and Garry’s talked to some expats already, who say we should be optimistic about it - although to wait until after Christmas.

Had a drink and quiet read before going to the Immigration office; its not possible to extend our visas until nearer the time. Dropped Achim off and went to Halls Land Rover garage to ask about selling. They were useless! Did a bit of shopping then came back to the club.

Got chatting to a South African and Scottish girl here on their honeymoon, ah! Ended up spending the whole evening with them. He’s unfortunately the result of a troubled country - a violence freak but mercifully not that racist.

We had a great meal here for 15k for 2 - steak and egg roll, chips and salad.

Sports day in Lilongwe

Got up late at 8am and cooked breakfast, then went to my scrubbing in a big way. Washing dirty dirty camping clothes in cold water and a bucket is the pits! Just as I was finishing the heavens opened up on the thirsty dry crops and us, so we ran into the clubhouse.

Met Angela and Paul and had a game of snooker with them, were joined by 3 young and smart South Africans, Fudge, Roach and Trevor. Had another good game of very bad snooker. The rain stopped at lunchtime and it was so muggy that Garry and I went swimming in the rain - it was lovely to have the pool to ourselves, loafing around in tractor inner tubes.

Making the most of our camping membership, we had a game of golf, only 9 holes and including the hire of clubs, caddy, the lot it only cost 11k (£1.50). We both played like old women (par 35 - Garry, and me 92!), but the caddy was a good bloke and we enjoyed it.

Rained in again at the clubhouse we had steak burger and chips. This place always has the same faces - drunk and arrogant expats. We joined the boys in their newly acquired tent where they were writing crazy poetry. I had forgotten what a good humour is all about!

We didn’t wake up until 8am again - naughty campers!

We met Egburt, a caddy here and started our adventure. At the bus stop we persuaded a van driver to take us - so piled in the back we rattled along to Area 25. The outskirts of the town, weaving through the mud huts as a short cut we met with friendly faces and many empty cartons of chubuka (mullet beef). At the markets we drew a huge crowd when Fudge started taking photos. At least 50 kids followed us on our way. A big and very drunk family asked us to joint them for gin, which we all obliged, even though it was only 11am. One of the mammas, gave me baby, a lovely little girl. We enjoyed it even more when a toothless old man started rapping and all the children were clapping. We bid them off and went inside a crazy old man’s hut and shared a smoke before walking for at least 5klms further. Oh yes, on the way we heard drums and gate-crashed a raving party, where if they weren’t playing Boura, they were dancing like crazy in a trance! I shook hands so many times and even had a kiss and cuddle. Foot sore after 10klms we turned back and got a bus home.

A day to be remembered, we finished it off by having a crazy laughing evening in the pavilion and even attempted a cricket match, but we lost the squash ball after the first hit in the dark!

A day to get things done! Started with good intentions. We went to change money but the indian man said come back at 2. Went to the Land Rover garage to see the Sales Manager about selling - he wasn’t there so we waited for ½ hour - to be told that the General Manager had to make the decision and was out. But from what he said we should stand a chance after Christmas. With no money left we couldn’t do much so went back to the Golf club. It was boiling hot so we went for a swim with Trevor.

At 2pm we went back to town and I changed a personal cheque for k- ½ - £1. We then went back to the Land Rover garage to check out on oil leak on the rear diff. Were told it happens if it gets too clogged up with mud and will rectify itself. Sounds good enough to me - even if it is the seal the job will be cheap.

Christmas shopping in the PTC - We spent a fortune for us K100 (£15), and bought nuts and biscuits, a few sweets and other luxuries. A bottle of scotch and sugar cane spirit solved our Christmas drinks. Outside we bought some nice fruit and veg and looked at the carvings. Then a man offered us amethyst, tiger eye and a huge uncut ruby, glass or not, we succumbed to a large uncut amethyst for £2. When we got back the boys disappeared, so back into town, but we couldn’t find them and in the meantime Garry lost the purse with K130 in it! And my ebony earrings and lots of contact addresses.

Today is the day to move on. Achim appears to want our company still, so Roach and Trevor and 4 packs came with us and the other 2 hitched.

We arrived at Selima at 1pm to a beautiful hotel, the Livingstonia on the edge of a sandy beach on the lake. We parked under a tree, fiery, red blooms shading it. The first thing that was necessary for me was to swim again in this great lake.

We walked around for a bit, Garry and Trevor went into town for beers and cokes. By 6pm the other 2 still weren’t here. The joys of public transport, so we went to eat. For such a luxury hotel its cheap for us - K4 per night and I ate lovely chicken and chips with salad for less than £1! It was now dark and they hadn’t arrived, so me and Garry went to see if they were in Selima town, unable to get a lift. The problem was there were far too many people walking on the narrow road, so we turned back half way.

Anyway, they got here at 8pm and were full of their adventurous day, an excursion around the Sobo factory being the highlight. Got a nice fire going in the evening and mellow music but were asked to turn it down! This is a family campsite - the likes of which I haven’t seen in Africa.

What a tragic terrible day. My eyes are stinging as I write, while I was showering Garry saw a hippo only 5m out from our beach - an 11 year old was with it, being dragged by the arm and staring terrified but silent at Garry. Garry shouted and threw sticks at it but it took no notice, piercing straight through his stomach. By this time the whole hotel and village was out screaming, but the hippo went down and swam off. They found his body and tried to give him life but it was too late.

My man is made of good stuff, the only one to attempt to console the desolate parents and help to take the body away. It was a totally devastating experience, the Africans were crying hysterically, but most of us were too shocked for that. We tried to take our minds off it later by going out to the island with the fishermen. But there was a numbness over everyone.

A spectacular space home to thousands of comorant and sea eagles as well as monitor lizards and iguanas. Garry just sat there trying to erase his memory and we were all very sunburnt so we went back early.

We all have different ways to get over things. Garry got decidedly paralytic on whisky but by this time I felt quite sick and was twice before going to bed. The others joined Garry in his stupor and they finished off our Christmas whisky. It will take everyone here a long time to get over this disaster, but for those parents, especially as an only child, never, never.

A new day helps everyone, but there was still a quietness, unnatural and nobody near the lake. It started raining heavily so we went to the restaurant for breakfast. We had to stay there for hours as the dramatic storm shook us from all angles. There was nothing to it than have a game of baseball in the rain. Our ball was a lime in a sock bound up, our bat was the pestle, the pitch was the beach, the teams were 12 strong and we had a good time. We were interrupted by the arrival of the hunter, towing a big dead hippo behind their boat. We’ve now heard that the wardens shot a hippo 3 days ago but didn’t kill it as it escaped. An injured hippo gone crazy with pain was the culprit and the dead one here now, we hope.

Apparently, they don’t live on the lake usually but this group had a fight and split into tow, half going into the lake. The whole village was out again and excited with their victory. These people have to work on this lake still. It was then taken away to be butchered for meat. We had a fast game of volleyball for hours until we all dropped. There’s still no-one swimming today and most people have left, leaving a respectful lull hanging over the place.

We will leave in the morning to go to Cape McClear. Made the most of the great food here before going back to meat and rice.

We didn’t rush and had a nice breakfast of toast outside in the sunshine. Achim and Fudge left before us to hitch down there.

The terrible twins packed away their tent like it was fish and chip paper. They’ve arranged to buy a great basket and its being sent straight to Jo’burg. On the road, out of Selima we stopped to look at the curio stalls and traded some tee-shirts and bits for a lovely pair of headed, and a bowl set.

Cape McClear was nothing like I expected it to be. To get there we had to drive on a disused railway line and sand track to an African village with a tiny hotel, very run down, that’s Stevens Place. Run by 2 antiquated Brits it is operated all on trust. You write down what food and drinks you’ve had and that’s what you pay for. We managed to get the last rooms, although ours was in the middle of the courtyard, very hot and smelly.

Had a great evening, sitting on the beach with a crowd of 15, our Landy providing the music. To watch the sun setting over the lake, with the dramatic hills of Mozambique in the background, the sound of laughter all around and with good friends gives you one of those tingly, unforgettable magic moments to treasure.

Baked out of our corrugated room at 6 - we found out the others were woken up at 4!, with the sounds of music coming from the kitchen. Meals were served on a rotary system, who ever write down their order first, gets it. We were on page 3, so had a long wait! It was worth it though; Egg on toast and a dirty mug of tea. We walked to Golden Sands. Along the coast, it is a Nature Reserve, with a disused holiday camp that is now a campsite. We decided to try our luck there for Christmas. Got a beautifully shaded spot 20ft away from the lake.

First priority was a swim to cool off. Then food! All the shops were apparently sold out but Garry and Fudge tried anyway. Came back hours later with no bread but beers and cokes!

We got friendly with one of the fishermen and they took us out to Lizard Island. Much like Bird Island off Selima. We snorkelled and swam for hours on Christmas Eve!

Scored ourselves a nice chicken and Roy, the cook at the camp did it justice, with roast potatoes and carrots. All evening people were wandering over to share the festivities and we ended up asleep on the beach in the wee hours with totally incoherent bodies sprawled around.

Merry Christmas to one and all! Garry gave me a beautiful polished Tiger Eye and I felt so guilty as I hadn’t been able to buy anything except some fishing hooks for him. No snow, but plenty of sand! We swam before breakfast; well we didn’t actually have any until we begged some eggs and Achim cooked a great tomato omelette each. I was so disappointed that they wouldn’t let us use the phone to ring home. A new rule for today! We welcomed Christmas in with some beers and I had sugar cane spirit - potent stuff!

Spent the rest of Christmas Day on Bird Island. If anyone had told me I would be on a deserted island in the middle of Lake Malauri in the middle of Africa, I wouldn’t have believed them. By 3pm we were cooked on each side, so we headed back. Trevor announced that it would be fun to row back, he jinxed the engine which cut off and we really did have to row back, with one bailing out as it had a hole in the boat.

Dinner was not quite Turkey and trimmings but very simply Chambo and rice, not the nicest fish in the world. It really wasn’t important to us though, we just drank some spirit to make up for it. I walked back along the beach to Stevens to try to phone home but cos I wasn’t a guest they wouldn’t let me

I struck up a friendship with 2 schoolboys and walked through their village, stopping to chat to Mammas and reggae with some boys on the path. They gave me some biscuits. Drank too much till late!

The place was buzzing with school kids dressed up in their best. Swam, swam and then swam again! I don’t think we’ve ever been this brown before. Watched the black faced monkeys playing in the trees and eating the mangoes I threw out.

Had a game of scrabble with the brainy bunch. They wrote silly letters to their friends.

To make up for Christmas dinner, we bought a goat and it took nearly all day to prepare the thing. The goats owner helped us prepare it. It was an art form to see him carefully cutting it. We used our tarpaulin poles as a spit and 2 branches to hold it ????. Looked like a crucifix.

The arsonists built a huge fire and we pricked the goat with whole garlic, mustard, chilli and honey. We did sweet corn and jacket potatoes. It wasn’t ready till 9 but worth waiting for and delicious. Although we never said to each other, we did feel a bit guilty about munching Billy!

Went for a midnight swim - delicious.

Back to business. The boys couldn’t get a lift so at the last minute we took them to Monkey Bay just in time to catch the ferry to Likomen Island. Achim came with us as far as Selima, while we dropped him off at the bus station for Blantyre. Said our goodbyes again, but we’ll surely meet somewhere again.

Arrived at Selima, Livinstonia Hotel at lunchtime and was amazed to see the place packed out with everyone enjoying the lake unknowingly! The manager was so attentive with us and said they’ve killed off the whole hippo group and have a guard watching the coastline.

He let us use their phone and we rang Ken and arranged to speak to everyone at 8pm this evening.

Cleaned the van up a bit and chatted to Eddison again, the boy from the village.