Got up at 7 and had breakfast - Chimp has taken a liking for bread - mostly stolen!. It started off really cool today. Garry and Christian went off to buy some oil while the artist did me a first class ink drawing for only 50p. The tailor brought us our flour bag clothes but he is coming back to put cords on the bottom. Sylvi and I made a mad dash to the Post Office cos we thought it would close but found out its open all day! When we got back we took Achim to the hospital to collect the results and had to ask about 6 people for directions. He still has Malaria in his blood as well as protein but no-one seemed to know the importance of that. So we went in search of an English speaking doctor who said he had a kidney complaint as well. Sylvi and Eugene went to the vets to get Chimp inoculated but it was closed. I then walked to the Post office to send a telegram to Dad while Garry went to look for a second-hand camera - wow they’re expensive here.

Had a busy day without getting much done and it was evening before we realised it. Again ordered the set meal and had waiter service by the trucks. A really nice family living in Tanzania have arrived as well as the Italians from the rally.

Woke up before everyone else was up at 7am and cooked a gallon of porridge. Eugene took us to fill up with diesel and go to the vets for Chimps inoculation papers. We went to a private filling station and bought 200 litres for 11300Z (cheapest Zaire price). Then onto the vets, where they have a horse skeleton painted all colours of the rainbow. He just felt her head to find out her temperature of 37.5C and looked at her teeth, to which she screamed the place down then poo’d, neatly placing her bum over the chair onto the floor. We got an inoculation and examination certificate for 2000Z then had to go to the conservation office for the transportation papers which cost 4000Z. When we got back there were a lot of people around, the artist, the tailor, people selling fruits and souvenirs.

After lunch Garry took Eugene and the two Canadian girls to get their ferry tickets. I did some washing but Chimp wouldn’t leave me alone so we did it together. Roy, the Indonesian who lived in Tanzania gave us some excellent contact for selling there. We gave Eugene 3000Z for his help and Christian gave him 5G/Cons.

Then, for medicinal purposes only, Gave had several shots of whisky with the other. Sylvi and Christian bought us dinner and I had the best steak I’ve tasted in Africa. Had a laugh watching Chimp, up to her antics then bed at 10.30.

Up at 7.30am and Garry’s cold is still quite bad. After a leisurely breakfast, Garry, Achim and I took a walk to the market and bought duck eggs and some fruit - not much else there! It was so hot that we stopped for a cold soda on the way back. Before I went back I went to the Post Office and a nice college boy starting talking to me and offered to take us to the zoo. We were supposed to leave here today but Christian woke up feeling like he had Malaria coming, so we’ll leave tomorrow.

We stayed at the Hotel Olympia all afternoon and leisurely did chores while playing with the monkey. The youngest girl of Roys’ Joanna got bitten by the monkey as she was smothering her. She also won’t let the men hold her now and screams if you try to make her. I cut Garry’s beard with a Chimp hanging around my shoulders.

Garry went to the bar with the others and I cooked giant hot dogs and tomato relish. Then Garry helped Roy closing his back box, sounds easy - took hours. Had a nice shower after hot day in Achim’s hotel room. Christian has really whacked his finger with a hammer and Unimog man, who says he’s a brain surgeon told him to take a pain killer! There was thunder and lightening for hours before we went to bed then it started raining.

I woke up really early when it was still dark and listened to the rain for hours. By 7.30 though it had stopped and we got up. Took our time getting ready for the off and had coffee in the bar. Chatted to everyone there before saying goodbye at 11. Took about 6 people’s directions to find the right way out of town. After a few hours we stopped at a little restaurant for lunch but although it was 1pm they didn’t have any food left. So we had a beer in a pretty bamboo bar with bright murals of animals on all the walls. There was a tariff sign selling broken beer and soda bottles! I made some lunch in the car then we sat in the truck to eat it. Then set off on the same brick red track with Mtoto and bumped around the pot-holes. It got quite warm in the afternoon considering the cool start and monkey and I fell asleep, after she had investigated and tried to eat everything on the dash. People seem to be a lot calmer this side of Kisangani. At about 4 we found our gravel camp for the night, which was hidden from the road, and we drove through 2m tall elephant grass to get there. We were testing chimp walking from person to person, then she pee’d on me! Then they took photos of her, and then she pee’d down Sylvi’s back!

After pancakes filled with herring, mushroom and sweet corn with sauté potatoes, Garry washed up then we mellowed out to the sounds of the jungle.

Didn’t get up until 7.15 and after breakfast was on the road by 9.15. It was better going than the reports had indicated and the burning sunshine helped dry the track.

We pushed on all morning until 12.30 where we stopped for lunch. It was so hot that ate it in their truck. Only 10klms along the road we found a nice bar so we stopped for a cold drink and they even had coke - my first in a month. We took Chimp in with us and they produced a well coved well male one of about 1 year.

Mtoto and John took absolutely no notice of one another which surprised us all. A little further on we were stopped by 2 men on a motorbike who wanted to sell us another baby chimp that was tied onto the back! After screaming at them for a while we carried on until we found a nice stream for a bath. I took Mtoto in with me and she didn’t mind being dipped in a little.

The road was really hilly and at the bottom of these you could see they would be a nightmare in the wet. We found a lovely secluded pit to camp in and I took a long walk into the forest but some loud snarling sent me quickly back. Before dinner 3 men arrived to sell an Okapi skin and a chimp!! Cooked stewed beef with green beans and potatoes, then sugar and lemon pancakes. It was delicious and I could have eaten another one.

Went to bed at 9 and read for a while.

When we got up at 7am the others had already started for the day. Their truck has some serious structural problems and they have had to move both spare wheels inside to balance the weight. By 9.15 we were on the road but only got 10k up the road when we had to wait for the truck to free itself from the mud. The same thing happened 10 minutes later, then again another 10klms after. This time the boys had to cut down the bush to drive round, then Christian towed the truck out. We had chimp in with us at this stage and she adventurously climbed over to the back to get a banana!

At Bafurasende we bought some bread then stopped for a cold drink. The Germans ate chicken and rice but we made lunch in the van. Sylvi wants us to go our separate ways - we thing because of the chimp, so we will go as far as Epulu with them and then go on ahead. We managed to buy two huge plants of hardwood to put under their box to strengthen it but to put into place caused a few headaches. We drove on for a few more hours on road that was crazy paved and had the odd giant pot-hole. We found an old colonial house that had been left for the bats years ago with a nice garden of lemons and guava.

The septic wound of Chimps that we’ve been treating ever since we got her was worse. So Sylvi disinfected it and cut it with a scalpel with shaking hands she pulled out a large piece of lead shot!

O actual size.

Saw a big strange looking bird.

We were up by 6.30 and on the road by 8am because the others wanted an early start. After 15klms we were stuck behind a truck that was dug into a 1.5m mud hole. I walked a short way into the forest and watched the monkeys playing. They were black with white faces and chests.

The people with the truck were just making matters worse by digging the wheels in further. After waiting about an hour Garry tried to drive round it through really slippery mud. With the help of about 15 people pushing he made it and was about to try to pull the truck out when another one turned up and did it first time.

After a few more nasty pot-holes we reached the Ituri River again and as before had to wait while they repaired the bridge. Not far from there was Nia Nia, that town had more military in it than the whole of Zaire. Stopped at a nice hotel for a drink then ate lunch while driving alone. Couldn’t find a nice bathroom today but at 4.15pm found a lovely camp with forest all around. Mtoto made my day by running to find me from 15ft away behind the van, ahh! She’s a darling.

We sat in the late afternoon sunshine and again saw monkeys in the trees. Made a nice pasta with tomato and paprika sauce with a tin of pilchards.

Again we got up at 6.30 but the others were nearly ready to leave and the atmosphere could be cut with a knife. We really don’t know what’s going on with them. Anyway they left before us and 15 minutes we were driving through the early morning mist at 7.45!.

We passed many trucks on this terrible road and although these drivers use this route all the time, nobody bothers to improve it. At 11 we arrived in the village of Epulu and had passed the most unpopulated section in Zaire with real rain-forest soaring above us. Bought some cigs, coffee and eggs then went to Station Epulu, the Okapi Capture Station. Its set in forest on the edge of the fast flowing Ituri river, which we camped by. The others arrived with a flat tyre and straight away we were welcomed by a spot nose or red tailed monkey. We then met Diane, an American WO worker and explained our problem with chimp. She first said there would be no problem in them taking her but after speaking to her colleague, came back to say that it probably wouldn’t be possible. We cleared the air with the others and they asked us to stay with them to help with chimp.

Met the other 2 chimps here from similar background and boy ones fully grown are boisterous! Had a real tropical rainstorm and sat in a piothe and played cards till late. In the afternoon I attempted to pain this beautiful spot without success.

Just as we were about to start breakfast an Army guard took Christian to see the Conservateur about little Chimp. Diane joined us with the 2 chimps and they romped and played with us but were rough with baby. Had a lovely time with our adventurous one actually walking to either Sylvi or me or bread!

After a lot of persuasion, the conservateur said we could leave our baby there. We were actually commended for doing what we had done.

At lunchtime we all went to see the Okapi, that are waiting to be sent abroad to zoos. They’re of the giraffe family, without the long necks and have brown and white stripes on their back legs. The pygmies catch them and collect 16 different species of leaves each day. They eat an incredible amount. The last 6 that were sent by road to Mombassa then plane to Kinshasa, 5 survived!

They also had baboons and small monkeys and Gabon vipers! We then took chimp to see his new playmates but still they were rough.

In the evening we played a new game of cards that’s called Skate and very complicated. We got carried away after beers and we’re stoned. Didn’t stop playing until 12.30.

Christian woke us up to show us a snake eating a frog. It looked physically impossible for it to swallow it, but after ½ hour it was gone.

After breakfast and a refreshing wash in the river, Garry and Sylvi went to town for some food. I played with chimp for the last time and sat with her watching the deers. We were then joined with spot nose, who jumped on my head. They shared some leaves they picked and spot nose was having a great time swinging from the thinnest of branches. “Parting is such sweet sorrow” - I ripped Chimp from me, handed her to Diane, who has promised to keep in touch then quickly left.

Just as we got on the road a red-tailed monkey ran in front of us. I wish we had more time to explore this most animal rich forest in Zaire - with Mountain Gorilla, Dwarf Chimps, Leopards and many more.

The road was still worse than we had expected and very hot. When we reached Mombassa at 3pm we went straight to the bar. After talking to people about the road ahead we have decided to take a minor track. The reason being, there is supposed to be a mud hole so deep that about 50 trucks are waiting to go through. Went to the Italian Catholic mission, that was really clean and they had a chimp. Played cards again.

Garry and I got up at 7am, everyone else was sleeping and a heavy mist made the air crisp.

After breakfast it started to rain with deafening thunder. We huddled under the little shelter and drank tea to keep us warm. We played cards, trivial pursuits and wrote the time away. It eventually stopped raining at about 2pm. Sylvi, Garry and I went to town to stock up in the market.

As the road we’re planning to take doesn’t show any villages, we must be self sufficient for at least 5 days. We bought a banana leaf full of honey, bees and comb as well. Fresh balls of peanut butter, tomatoes, potatoes and bananas. Then went to the miller and bought flour lose.

We were joined by hundreds of tiny bees when I heated it up to sieve it. The father let us take chimp out and she romped and played excitedly in her freedom. He also gave a baby bush baby and it stuck anywhere he put it, like a broach. Walked around the grounds and played for ages with the spider monkeys.

After dinner in the fog!, the father kindly let us use a room that was as pretty as a dolls house. Christian gave us a slide show of his last trip - what excellent photography. No pictures would be complete without popcorn and so I cooked a huge saucepan full. It felt so cold that we checked the temperature and it was only 23°, but felt like zero to us!

We got up at 6.30 for an early start but it was cold and misty and threatened to rain, so we waited until 10.30 before leaving when the sky cleared a little. Even while we were still in Mombassa the road was hard but we had been told by lots of people that the main road was impassable. After 7 Kms we slipped into a gully and both the differentials were on the ground, so we had to jack the front up and dig. Then after only another 2klms we got stuck in a small deep hole and had to be pulled out by the truck. Here, we discovered that the new front right shock absorber had broken and we think, not fitted properly!

Every 500m we had to stop and test the depth of the puddles before sliding though. Amazingly the Landy ploughed through a very long muddy stretch but the truck got really bogged down. After about 6 attempts with the sand ladders and digging, we cleared the bushes away at the side and cut down trees but that didn’t work either. Eventually, caked in mud and exhausted we freed it by pulling it out with Landy and laying logs in the ditches. Then after only 500m the same thing had to be repeated.

There was no clearing to camp on, so at 5.30 we stopped on the road as there’s no fear of other vehicles coming along.

After 7 hours we had managed 25klms - an average of less than 4klms an hour! At least people have told us we’re over the “worse”!

Up at 6.15 and by 8am we were at our first mud hole. The Landy has to speed through these as its so slippery and some of the angles it drives at defy gravity. Some people we met yesterday who wanted to go to Beni by the main road, which is impossible decided to walk and got on quicker than us, passed us this morning. Most of the time I was walking and testing mud and holes! We actually didn’t get stuck today but it was nerve-racking hearing the noises from under the car. The truck got stuck 4 times and the sand ladders weighed twice as much covered in mud. We had to chop a big log up that blocked the way at one stage. We stopped for lunch by a coffee plantation in the hot midday sun. Sylvi made pancakes for everyone as we have no bread then we carried on our snails pace. At about 3pm just as the truck got stuck again, the heavens opened and within 30 seconds we were soaked through.  It was right in the middle of a village and they were all laughing at us, especially when Garry fell over. When the rain eased off we got the truck out with Landy, ladders and lots of digging. By now the red mud was like ice and the truck stuck again in an 8pt mud hole. This time, enough was enough, and we ended up camping outside a house, which caused its own problems. We just started making tea when it poured again, so we reversed the van right under the canopy and tried to block out our audience.

I was up at 5.45 because the locals had been chatting loudly just outside our window. It was a beautiful misty morning that promised a crystal clear day. All around us though was gluey red mud and we squelched about in our mud caked boots and cardboard clothes.

By 8am we were weaving our way along the track. We encountered about 8 difficult mud baths and had to use the sand ladders and shovels another 4 times for the truck. We’ve been getting more and more worried about the damage these are causing to our devoted Landy, who squeaks with pain every time. We passed 3 hunters carrying 4 big, beautiful and very dead monkeys. I’ve not seen anything like them before, black with long white beards and skirts. We gave them a photo of home and instant photo of themselves in return for a photograph. While we were stopped we saw our 2nd live snake of the day - a tiny one with red and black stripes running the length of its body. Stopped for lunch in the road and I made pancakes for everyone. This stop marked the turning point in the condition of the road and we sped along at 20klms an hour in places. Found a nice stream and we optimistically washed our mud covered bodies and clothes. As we got closer to Beni we witnessed fantastic views as the forest thinned and had a glimpse of the Zowenzoni’s range. For 30klms there was a continuous village along the road and drove till 6.15pm trying to find a place to camp. Found a beautiful meadow in the end and celebrated finishing that ghastly road in Zaire, champagne and a good bottle of red wine that Roy gave us.

Got up to a beautiful blue cloudless sky and I followed the sounds of water across the meadow to a fast flowing river where I watched a herd of long horned steer grazing. Felt great, with the feeling that we’ve combated Zaire and on our way to East Africa Sylvi had a few in the night and bad throat, so stayed in bed. After coffee we drove the last 5klms to Beni and didn’t get stuck once! On the way to the Catholic mission, we met two 65+ years German couples in really well equipped Unimogs, who’ve been travelling Africa for 2 years.

Went to the bank and luckily changed FF Travellers cheques for 33=1F but at least 6 people had to authorise it. Then went to the shops and bought real ham, cheese and butter!

At the mission we settled down for lunch then, unfortunately, a funeral procession stopped 20 ft from us and started their ceremony. While this was going on about 1000 kids were nosily regarding us. After the entourage left we started asking, then shouting, at them to leave, then we got their teacher and each attempt made them laugh more and get closer, throwing stones - so we left!

We went to a Hotel and as long as we took one room we could camp on their grounds. Garry and Christian went to town at 3pm to try and sell a wheel each to get a shock absorber. Achim and I talked all afternoon; Sylvi was still in bed with fever. They didn’t get back until 7.30 and were pissed but did manage to buy a cheap shock absorber and sell the wheels. We asked the Madam to cook for us and at 9.30 we finally had chips and liver.

Got up at 6.30 and had a great breakfast of fresh coffee, bread, cheese and then honey. Garry and Christian went out to get the shock absorber fitted on and I had a proper bath in the room and then read in the sunshine. Sylvi and I tried all tactics to get rid of our fan club and the best approach seemed to be to try and hold a conversation with them!

They were back by 1.30 and had sold our wheel and 4 jerry cans for 30,000Z and got the shock absorber fitted for nothing, thanks to a Frenchman.

After lunch, the man who washed our clothes asked if he could wash the mud packed Landy. An army of about 6 people started scrubbing at it. Achim and I walked to town to buy fresh milk but although they had it we had to supply our own containers. Bought some other things and big fairy cakes! When we got back I made tea to eat with them. Then we changed into party clothes and drove to the Somalian Restaurant, Eugene had recommended. Had a big disappointment, when they told us, all they had was meat, rice and beans. Beans were set, rice was cold and the meat all bone. At least it only cost 300Z each. We left grumbling and went straight to Hotel Beni for a drink. Garry had flies in his and my coffee never materialised. Went back to the truck after our Friday night out at 8.30! and so got stoned!

Didn’t get up until 7.30, then had fried eggs and ham for breakfast.

The bloody hotel changed his mind and charged us 2000Z for parking so they’re not our friends anymore and we packed up and left at 10.30. Went to the market and bought giant tomatoes and lots of fresh fruit and veg.

Afterwards we bought the Frenchman a bottle of wine, then fresh cold milk! I thought I was used to dried milk but now I know what it tastes like - its got a lot of bottle!

The road wound round and round the mountains and the scenery was breath-taking. The whole terrain has changed and to the highest hill is farmed with bananas and billions of pineapples. The trouble is that there are beaucoup de children and it would be impossible to camp here or for that matter breathe here in 5 years time.

Stopped at a pretty hotel for a drink and they cooked us an omelette each for 80Z. The problem was, the children were even peeping through the curtains and doors! We found a campsite by a big brick building surround by eucalyptus trees and fishponds with the great hills in a cloud of mist. Had a great dinner of sauté potatoes and cauliflower cheese. It was so cold that even wrapped up inside you could see your breath.

Up at 7 with the sound of little voices very close. By the time we sat down for breakfast though most of them had gone and the ones that were left shared the rest of our coffee.

All along the rocky pot-holed track were bananas or eucalyptus plantations and beyond that, rolling hill farmed with the same crops. We stopped a few times to take photos and admire the view. At about 11.30 we tooted Christian to tell him he had a flat tyre - as he got out the van he said he recognised this exact spot where the Equator line is (medienne). Sure enough, there was a post there but no sign - on asking the lady about it, she stopped work on her washing, went into her house and came out carrying a big board. After taking photos, we stopped up a track with a stream running by the side for our equator party. We chilled the wine and martinis, we had bought in the morning and after they changed the tyre. Had a great lunch of fried eggs, cheese etc. Our celebration scran had to be continued in the back of the truck as it started to rain.

We were allowed to camp in the back garden of a beautiful little hotel. It had tagits and hydrangea growing everywhere! The children were great here and we had a nice peaceful evening talking to the people. The lady who owned it took me by the hand into a tiny bar with at least 12 people and gave me a fanta!

Didn’t get up until 7.30 and had a nice breakfast amongst an amazing setting. I watched the mist rolling off the hills. Lubero is 1975m above sea level and very cold. The drive through these mountains was incredible and most of the time it was raining as we were in the clouds. Just as the downpour was at its worse the truck ran out of diesel and they got drenched. We stayed inside Rover though and practised Swahili in vain! At 12.30 we followed a track and stopped for lunch. As it was raining Sylvi made us all beans and cocoa with the fresh milk we had bought in the morning. This place never ceases to amaze us - In the middle of a mountain pass was a tiny hut selling soft cheese, butter and sausages.

In the afternoon we saw more strange plants together with ones you see in everyday Europe, and strange crab/frog ugly things! We then found paradise - strawberries for 100Z for a big bowl and we ate them driving along. At 4 we couldn’t find an uninhabited stretch of road so asked at the only European style house - a Belgian doctor was pleased to let us camp in his garden over-looking a big fish pond. After dinner, the others went to his house but I looked after the cars. His story is appalling - 2 years ago he took over from the only doctor in the hospital, who sold all the drugs. Totally untrained staff were administering everything and 1 in 2 people died. Now he has totally rebuilt the hospital single-handed and pays for medicines himself.

After breakfast we followed Dr Doonay to see his hospital. This man is totally dedicated - even the architecture he had to plan himself. Fresh water has to be carried from the other side of the village and only has a small generator to be used at night. Most patients were maternity and common for a woman to have 5 caesarean operations. He hasn’t left the hospital since April because can’t trust the only other doctor. Last time when he got back he had sold some stuff!

Sylvi gave him a big box of medicines and we donated 1000Z each for which he was very grateful. This village which consists of 150,000 people never existed 10 years ago! After lunch in a pretty hotel, drove a few kms until entering Park National des Vircenga (reportedly the best in the world). It costs $40 per person but nothing for a transit trip. As soon as we entered we saw baboons on the road and as we crossed to the other side of the mountain range the whole plains of East Africa opened out to us.

The view alone would have been spectacular but then in the distance we saw about 100 elephants and gazelles at their waterholes. Once we drove down onto the plains we saw water buffalo, hippos walking, so you could see the size of the, Wart Hogs, and hundreds of gazelle at close range, some even crossed the road in front of us. There were many beautiful birds and we saw one lone crane with a bright red beak. Although you are not allowed to camp or drive at night we had to cos we ran out of time and just had to pay 500Z each.

There was a terrific thunder storm all night. What a memorable, packed day we had.

We were dressed by 5.30 and had just coffee as it was getting light. By 6.15 we were again driving through the park, me sitting on the roof wrapped up in the chilly morning air. The profusion of coloured birds was great, a heron type bird with pink hairstyle kept flying 10m then stopping in the road in front, red and black, mauve and long-tailed were everywhere to name but a few. I saw a monitor lizard about 5ft long, but it was gone by the time I pointed it out. Then, as we drove parallel with the river about 20ft away we saw hippos - loads of them! In all, I suppose we saw 40 as they gathered at the mouth of the boiling hot sulphur streams. We got so excited that we foolishly walked to the bank to take photos. We were lucky enough to see a few get right out of the water and boy are they a size.

Further on the scenery changed to woods and we saw small black faced monkeys, playing in the road. They got so inquisitive that a few came a few feet away from us.

When we left the park we stopped for a big brunch in a Ghanaian style hotel then drove until 3pm. When we arrived in Goma, the border town with Rwanda that shares the shores of the lovely Lake Kivu. The road got the better of everyone’s nerves as it was sharp volcanic rock and very pot-holed. We camped at Central Spontif - not exactly a perfect place. They kept increasing the cost of camping and the one shower was filthy. There were much too many workers who did nothing but pester about changing money.

After breakfast, which wasn’t very enjoyable because we were hassled with sellers and I was bad tempered, we all went to town in both vans. The first thing we did was to go to the border to find out about visa requirements for Rwanda.

The Zaire official scrutinised our passports and seeing our forged dates told Garry “we have a problem!”. If Rwanda won’t let us in we don’t have a multiple entry visa - is that all - phew. He let Garry drive to Rwanda border where they said we could have a one day transit visa free of charge. I then went to a shop and bought cheese and butter. We met up with the others and went to the Kin shop and changed money with a Lebanese. It took until 2pm to buy diesel, which could only be done on the black market at the sellers house, as all garages had been bought out. We also had to pay 3 times the amount than in Kisangani.

When we got back to Centre Spontif I had a huge row with the Madam from behind the bar who wouldn’t let me use the filthy toilet. Also a ZZ man overland truck had taken over our space and we had to camp around their trailer. So we went to find Chem Chem Camping, that had signs all over town - it didn’t exist! In the evening we walked to a restaurant but it took us a good ¾ hour walk to find one. We had the usual goat and rice but it was cooked nicely and was a pretty place run by Presbyterians, so we couldn’t have alcohol. Before we left it poured down and luckily we got a beaten up old taxi to take us back. We had a great laugh with 2 Kenyans working for the overland truck.

Were woken up at 6 by a commotion outside. The overland truck had left everything out on tables overnight and a thief had helped himself. We had a leisurely breakfast, said our goodbyes and swapped addresses with our travelling companions of 2 months. After agreeing to contact them in Dar Esalaam we left at 9am and tried to leave without paying for the so-called campsite but they caught on! We sailed through Zaire border in less than ½ hour. Its prettily set on the side of Lake Kivu. Over the other side of a bridge and on a tarmac road we were in Rwanda. After an hour and a half, Garry came out with the bad news, that we had to go to Kigali and pay 4000 R Francs each for a visa (£20 each). No-one searched the car and soon we were driving through the country of a thousand hills. This is supposed to be the most densely populated country in Africa but compared to Zaire it was deserted. We noticed immediately that the people were quieter and according to a Belgian teacher we gave a lift to, not very friendly.

Our first time on a tarmac road for a long time, we heard a rattle from the front right suspension. We took the wheel off and found that all the bolts for the spring and shock absorber hadn’t been done up properly, since they fitted the new one - didn’t take Garry long to rectify, then we were off.

We arrived in Kigali at about 2pm; I went straight to the Immigration office and was impressed by their efficiency and bright green and pink uniforms! After changing some money, black market outside the bank, I paid for our visas and was told to come back at 4.30. So we went to find a hotel. Hotel Bien Venue cost £20 but it was a well deserved treat, to have a hot batch and a great deal - we both had soup, then I had ham pizza and Garry Spaghetti Bolognaise. We were in bed by 8.30!

I though we had slept in really late but were down for breakfast by 8.15. Met a Dutch man with English wife who have been working in Kenya and now driving back to England. After breakfast we gave them as much information as we could and then sold them our sand ladders for $30.Went to town for supplies but couldn’t find any food shops even after asking the police, so gave us and headed out of town to Kibungo. Got to the border at about 1.30 and Garry went to sort out paperwork. Meantime, a Kenyan man was interested in buying Landy and gave me his telephone number in Nairobi. We were cleared in no time and had no search. The scenery changed to rocky mountains with quite dry vegetation and past the waterfalls we were at the Tanzanian border. While Garry was doing the business, a lovely policeman came out to introduce himself and helped me with my Swahili pronunciation. Garry told the customs that we had no dollars because of the robbery and he let us pay the road tax of $60 at the exit border, then paid $3 admin charge for us - we felt really guilty! Just up the road we watched 2 separate troops of baboons playing on the tarmac, then a Marabou in the road in front of us! It was so peaceful and there were no houses in sight and soon we found a big gravel pit to camp in. It was only 3.30 and still very warm. We found huge cat footprints very near but never saw who they belonged to. Had a dinner of mashed potatoes (smashed with pestle and mortar), carrots and corned beef. As it got dark, it got so cold that we put the bed up and played cards all evening. What a lovely day we had - I think I’m going to like Tanzania a lot.

We left the curtains open all night so at 6am we were woken up by the sun rising. I made gypsy toast and fried tomatoes with fresh coffee filtered through our huge funnel. We took our time and were on the road by 9am. Pulled off the road to a sleepy village and managed to change $10 with an Indian for 1000 T/Shillings. Not the best rate but we couldn’t be choosy.

The tarmac road finished after 90klms. Just before it did though the biggest marabou of about 4 feet stopped us in the middle of the road. This great ugly bird had been eating a rabbit there and let me get about 10 feet away from it. We took the corrugated road towards the Serengeti and bumped along into a nasty black cloud. It poured down so hard that at 1pm we stopped at a tiny hotel (although it was too small to have any rooms). We bought a cup of very sweet tea and the lady gave us some dry crusts with it. Sat in the tiny room, surrounded with men asleep over the tables, the noise of the rain on the corrugated roof was deafening but still they slept on. We really must learn Swahili fast as no-one in the villages speak English. It eased off so we ran to the car and drove for another 2 hours in the rain. The map said Geita had a camp site so we decided to stay there for the night, but when we got there found it was a grotty town with no such camp site. Asked lots of people and after buying bread and oranges, gave us on Geita and headed to find our own camp. It didn’t take us long and as we parked, a tiny antelope scampered off (a Dik Dik probably). While I cooked dinner we watched a grey eagle being chased by a tiny bird! There were some great noises coming from the trees and very near a big herd of long horned sheer grazed. Had sauté potatoes and fried eggs. Read in the van cos lots of insects.

We woke up at 6.30 to a dark threatening sky. Garry saw the same tiny deer again when he got up and it ran from the same hollow so we reckon we camped in her garden without even asking. Just as we finished breakfast it started spitting with rain. Quickly packed up and left. By 10 we had seen a saddle bill, a massive blue eagle with 2 crested cranes, but then the rain stopped our bird watching until 12. As it eased off we saw the Lake Victoria, dwarfing even the jagged rocky hills surrounding it. Realised we had reached the ferry as we were stopped at a long queue of trucks, but we couldn’t even see our vessel of the lake.

Bought some great bananas and roasted peanuts to munch the wait away. As tourists we had to pay $2 instead of 100TS. It arrived after ¾ hour and we were the last vehicle to be let on, nice ride across the lake. I did notice though, it was full with bilhanzie snails but as it comes from the Nile that’s not surprising.

Pulled off the bone shaking road for lunch next to a huge pile of boulders and I saw a monitor lizard. He shot under a rock and as I bent down to look, he let out a nasty hiss to warn me. Arrived in Mwanza at 2.30 and drove for ages just trying to find a place to drink, the dreadful pot-holes not helping matters. Used our first right hand drive roundabout. After having a coke in a “Fort Knock” type bar, found we couldn’t change any Travellers cheques as one was closed till next day and other bank don’t have them.

After asking several Indians to change money we had no joy and got well cheesed off with this town. No descent camp or hotel so we decided to drive out of town to a small secluded hotel next to the lake about 30klms up the track. We must have taken the wrong one cos we ended up in a large village minus lake. Couldn’t stay there or find anywhere else, so drove back to town in the dark with a lot of traffic dodging the pot-holes.

Had a lie-in and didn’t get up until 7 but it was really 8am because we found out Tanzania is an hour ahead. Took a shower which is the whole bathroom, as there is no tray, curtain or anything. Then had a lovely breakfast (I’ve cracked ) with friendly but two eager to please waiters.

Had to leave Garry’s’ passport at the hotel and go to the bank to change small travellers cheques. The official rate was twice as much as we thought which was great considering there wasn’t any black market that we could find. After asking loads of people and eventually giving a man a lift to get it, we gave up. On the way back out of town we bought bread and cigarettes from the same tiny stall and the bread was nearly twice as much as the cigs. The sky cleared into a burning sunny day and we left the road and had lunch on the banks of Lake Victoria. Watched the herons, funny long red legged wading birds. The little cattle herders came over to us and I looked around the whole horizon. I realised this scene would have been the same 1000 years ago. Got to Serengeti Gate but wanted to have a whole day so asked to camp there. There wasn’t even water there so we went back to the big village and had serious Swahili problems when an Indian in a truck asked if he could help, I told him we needed drinking water, he said we could have that and camp at a Safari Lodge he’s building. It turned out to be a fantastic place actually in the Park. On the way we saw loads of Thompson Gazelle. He gave us a great tent with proper bathroom on back. Had a hot solar powered shower! Then we went over to the workers area and he cooked us a great curry!

We got up early and after thanking Cher for his hospitality were driving through the plains of Thompson Gazelle and Ostrich towards the Park Gate. We paid £28 for one day and the minute we entered were surrounded by baboons, so stopped for breakfast.

One of the best experiences in my life, driving through the plains we saw thousands of Wildebeest (there are supposed to be 1.3m in the park) and Thompson Gazelle (250,000 in park) Zebras and Ostrich, as well as the funny secretary birds. Then we stopped at the river and watched the crocodiles lazing about in the water; Garry threw a stone a one and it snapped its huge mouth out of the water. Incredible - to be so close with no fence or people around. We took it in turns sitting on top of Landy until the road got too pot-holed. Next there were Giraffes having a feast on the acacia trees, they didn’t move a muscle as they stared at us.

After 150klms we came to the Hippo pool and stood on the bank watching them snort and puff in the water - on the other side of this small pond there were about 8 sleeping on the bank - they’re huge and very pink out of the water. Got to the stunning Lodge built into the huge rocks and had a drink - were quickly driven out by ghastly American tourists all donning Safari suits and lots of cameras! Drove through the short grass plains to the Naradi Gate, where we met a nice Aussie who said if we drive to the Crater campsite tonight we might see lions and elephants around camp. Drove 100klms on badly corrugated road and then the accelerator cable snapped but my super mechanic had it replaced in ½ hour. We drove the windy road in the dark and arrived shattered at 9. Garry did an oil change while I cooked dinner. It was freezing at 2400m high and we shared an English couples fire and chatted to a Park Warden. What a day to remember.

Woke up at 7, to a freezing misty morning. I made pancakes for breakfast while Garry checked the car over. The corrugations had shaken the roof box to bits, both locks had snapped off and the lid cracked, so we had to tie it down with rope. By 9am we were at the office to get a guide, then we were bumping along the track to the entrance of Ngorongoro Crater (the largest intact crater in the world at 17klms wide). Such incredible sights from the top as you see the whole thing far below you. It was a steep descent down to this time capsule of wildlife. Our guide saw animals we didn’t, our first lions, he stopped us driving straight past them! The most amazing sight must have been sitting at the Soda Lake’s edge and being surrounded by literally thousands of flamingo, with vivid pink spots on their wings. From there, as if that wasn’t enough for any dedicated animal watcher, we watched 3 black Rhino munching on bushes like tortoises; they were beautiful specimens with long sharp horns.

In the same low scrub we watched 3 elephants, one massive male with great long tusks and 2 lighter grey females who were much smaller.

As we left the crater there were many velvet monkeys playing by the side of the road. Drove out of the park, the great flat pains being farmed as far as the eye could see, but we managed to find an ideal camp on a hill that overlooked everything as the sun set on this sunny day. Tried to shovel out some of the dust that had collected everywhere. Another lovely day.

Tried to lay in bed but were up by 7 and as I had no bread so it was pancakes again, which were shared out with 2 very shy boys.

Garry checked over the Landy and by 10 we set out towards Arusha. The road was terribly corrugated and pot-holed, so we rattled our way slowly along. Passed lots of Masai, men and women alike with huge holes in their lobes, the children wear the brightly coloured bead necklets and bob them up and down to get our attention. The Masai warriors, Morans, strutted proudly past dressed in all black robes and long black head-dresses with white paint on their faces.

Drove through lunch and on the way, we met 3 Irish overlanders who were going down to Zimbabwe and selling there. This gave us food for thought and we said we would try to meet them in Arusha in a few days.

Arusha pleasantly surprised us with neat gardens and modern shops. We were totally shattered though and all we could think of was a real bed and shower. We went to half a dozen hotels but they all charged extortionate amounts in US $, so it was time to bring out our Amex card.

The first one typical of African management and we walked miles to see 6 rooms and everyone had plaster falling off the ceiling and broken showers, so we complained which didn’t bother them much and left.

It was very different at Mount Moru Hotel and we had a luxurious evening. At dinner we joined a nice posh Old English couple who we had met in Serengeti and are really interested in our trip. Their daughter had done some fantastic trips in South America and Galapious Islands among others.